I have an Imperial Challanger. I was cleaning out the smoke unit (plugged) and crimped the headlite wire when putting the shell back on. This caused a short when power was applied, I fear and am certain, the board is fried. I could smell smoke from the tender. Although hen opening the tender I could see no visable damge. There is absolutely no responce from the engine now.
If I order a PS2 kit, will it have all the nessesary parts to replace the damage I've done?

Thanks,
Brad

Sorry to hear of your loss! The only good that can come of this is if someone who advocates removing batteries before storing modern locomotives reads this and changes their stance.

You should be able to swap out the board from an upgrade kit provided that the Challenger doesn't need any particular DSP firmware to support the fact that it's an articulated engine. If it does not, then you could simply swap boards with the one in the kit and reload the proper sound file. Call MTH to discuss this further.

However, if you got lucky and fried only the power board, the above is moot and all you would need to do is swap out the engine's power board for the one in the kit.

Thanks so much for the eply Barry. I was just sick when it happened, mainly because it's an avoidable mistake.
Ill give MTH a call

Brad

Brad / all --

i've noticed that the stress relief and insulation abrasion protection on PS2 engines -- and the articulated ones in particular -- is, frankly, inadequate. As a motorcyclist, and someone that built helicopters for six months, i am profoundly sensitive to the need for care in this regard . . . and i put heat gun shrink wrap on all exposed PS3 wires when i take a shell off.

All Ps2 operators should consider doing the same. It only takes 5-10 minutes once a shell is off and could save a world of hurt.

-- gary ray

What a bummer tobad i'd send it in and have mth do it that way the new insallation is covered by warranty.

Pligged smoke unit. full of oil no output?

1 Try this turn engine over, too much oil(oil will eat the plastic the wires are insulated in) maybe?

2 blow into the smokestack, starts the fan spinning.

3 Take a long black twist tie and gently probe the smokestack, equalizes the pressure.

quote:

The only good that can come of this is if someone who advocates removing batteries before storing modern locomotives reads this and changes their stance.

I don't get the connection between crimping a headlight wire and battery removal.
Crimping wires is very easy to do in the confines of a loco shell. I've even had a break in insulation almost invisible to the naked eye.

BUT: I suggest sending the board back to MTH, tell them what (honestly) happened, & ask for a repair price. I found it cheaper than a full replacement.

Robert,

quote:

I don't get the connection between crimping a headlight wire and battery removal.

My point was that any time one opens an engine there's a chance of creating a new problem.

Those who advocate removing the rechargeable 8.4 or 2.4 volt battery from an engine when storing the engine off the layout for a year or so are advocating taking an unnecessary risk against the much smaller risk of the battery leaking.

quote:

My point was that any time one opens an engine there's a chance of creating a new problem.

Absolutely correct!!!

You may want to let an MTH ASC look at it. Chances are that it can be fixed cheaper than buying an upgrade kit.