I'm just exploring the options of converting some MTH CTA cars run on 2 rail.

Does anyone know of an O scale power truck similar to the HO scale trolly power truck offered by Bowser?

The power options I've found so far are:

GHB's trolly conversion trucks: expensive at $150 each and doesn't seem to be the correct size...wheelbase or wheel diameter.

NWSL's magic carpet powered wheetsets: An option if the CTA cars had external sideframes...which they do not. Not sure how these could work.

Bowser: Bowser does make a trolly conversion drive for a Corgi PCC trolley buy the wheel base seems too short and I can't determine the wheel diameter.

Or, does someone make a truck with drive gears that can be attached to a motor in the car?

Any thoughts? Thanks

Check with Q-Car Co. I know folks use their parts to convert the MTH NY subways to 2-rail.

http://www.qcarcompany.com/index.html

Duh...shoulda gone there first...thanks for the reminder.

They have a 6000 series power truck...hmmm...makes me wonder...

Get a set of 6000 add on cars and convert to 2 rail. If only MTH got the green/white cars correct instead of using cream for the white.

I've got some HO CTA cars but the eyesight isn't what it used to be and building L structure in O scale is a breeze compared to HO.

Or, just stick to three rail and run the trains as is...

Lots to think about.

CTA Fan

CTA Fan...post pictures of your O scale El...if you haven't already done so
thanks

My layout is still in the planning and building stage. Eventually it will be an L shaped shelf layout. One leg will be 9 feet and the other leg will be about 15 feet. The shelf will be wide enough to have a double tracked L structure and I will have return loops at either end. I plan on having 3 stations.

I've been experimenting with different construction methods for building L structure and if I decide to keep with three rail and not switch to 2 rail I will be using basswood to make my structure. It looks better with the Gargraves track and is a cinch to build. In addition to ease of construction, the cost for a three foot section is about $15.

Here is a three foot test sample I built in a couple of days...



[IMG]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2570/3786104289_042a43498b.jpg[/IMG



The structure on the left side is for an eventual station.

Things I have learned from building the test section:

Pre-prime and sand all wood before assembly.

I will change the horizontal flanges to a thinner 1/32" piece and I will use L shaped styrene for the vertical bracing on the beams.

Use CA glue instead of carpenters glue.

But, all in all, the structure is pretty sturdy as is. I've even dropped it a cpuple of times without damage. And, once I glue the track to the structure that will stiffen it up even more.

If I decide to switch all the cars to 2 rail then I think I will use styrene for the structure.

But, in the end, I will most likely stick with 3 rail as I can build this structure easily and get trains running more quickly.

Thanks all

I'd be intrested in seeing some more of you process of building the L structure. As I have been putting this off for sime time and want to build a simple loop to run my north shore line equipment on.

I would most DEFINITELY be interested in more info on your EL structure

I will put together some information on what I am planning on building.

The overall goal is to get an L structure that is relatively easy and quick to build with readily available material, doesn't cost a fortune and is reasonably accurate.

I am planning on modelling a short stretch of the Chicago Ravenswood/Brown line L structure but I am sure the concepts can be adapted to other lines.

Some design considerations:

Wood (basswood) vs. plastic: I can find basswood components at both a local Hobby Lobby craft store and at my local train hobby shop so the availability of wood is better. Plastic components, either Plastruct or sheet styrene is only available at the LHS. Also, since I am not a master craftsman, I just find wood to be a little easier to work with. I can use readily available componenets to keep constuction easy. The cost for wood also seems cheaper.

Strength/sturdyness: I don't plan on running the trains at breakneck speeds, so strength, while important, isn't super critical. Once the track is laid on the structure, the inherent stength of the rail helps in supporting the weight of the short (2 car) trains I plan on running. The biggest consideration I see is lateral strength...that is, strength along the length of the track. Luckily the Chicago L has X bracing every 4th span so that helps stiffen the structure ... remember I am modeling the Ravenswood L that runs in alleys so I don't have to span streets lengthwise. I also found the wood to be sturdier since the components were larger and had more surface area for gluing.

Ease of construction: I don't have the plans in front of me, but I am attempting to design a structure that uses the minimal amount of seperate pieces. I think I can get away with about 3 or 4 base components: (guessing on the sizes here) 1" high x 1/16th" strips for the girders, 1/4" wide x 1/16th thick strips for the webs, 1/8" x 1/8" for the columns and L shaped styrene for the girder stiffeners. With a minimal number of components, some jigs to aid in gluing and a Northwest Shortline Chopper III, the parts can be assembled quickly. Ease of construction is why I ruled out casting more detailed components out of resin. I didn't want to spend the next few years casting components.

Design of track: To keep it somewhat realistic, I am planning on using Ross track and switches. I do like the look of Atlas but the hollow ties are an issue when looking at the track/structure. Why Ross vs. Gargraves? To keep somewhat realistic, I like the 4" track centerline spacing that Ross sectional allows. I am not doing a loop, just a 90 degree curve.

Right now am I drywalling the layout area so construction of my L samples is put on hold to avoid thel drywall dust.

I think the best way is to experiment with different structure designs. What fits my needs might not fit all but with a little planning a solution can usually be found.

I will post more detailed plans as I can.

Also I forgot to add...

It seems that planning for an L layout is a bit more involved tham running surface trackage.

Other steps to consider...so here is my take on an L layout...

Layout base, whether it be plywood or foam, obviously needs to be set first. Then lay the track out on the base. This will indicate where the footings for the L structure need to be placed based on the plans for the structure. I haven't decided on what type of footing to use yet (wood rectangles painted to look like concrete or a cast resin pieces) but these will be placed next. Put the L structure, pre-built in 3 foot sections on the footings and shim the footing to level the structure. Permenently attach the footings to the layout base. Remove the structure to scenic the ground under the L. Also at this time plan for where electical feeders will be run to power the track.

Depending on what type of stations you will be using, make sure to account for the position of any ground structures at this time (station houses).

Attaching the L structure to the footings: once the ground is reasonably scenicked under the L, the structure can be put back on. For attaching, I think I want something secure but not permanent...I am going to experiment with a small dab of caulk to 'glue' the structure down. Or, just glue the structure down and hope for the best. I just want to secure the structure...I don't plan on moving the layout.

Pre-built L sections can be glued together once set on the footing or attached with small nuts and bolts.

Next, the track can be attached to the structure. Again, I want to attach the track in a secure manner that can be removed in an emergency. The L structure doesn't have enough material to screw or nail the track down so I will experiment again with caulk to semi-permenently attach the track. I will use sectional Ross track as flex track is not a possibility.

Feeder wires can be run up to the structure on the inside of the columns away from view or in plastic tubes camoflaged to look like electical components. Then the wires can be feed to the track from the inside of the girders.

Once the track is down, the the center catwalk can be constructed and the station platforms built.

At this time, all of this is merely a plan on what it would take to build a short L layout. It just seems that to pull this off you need a plan before construction is even started as the layout is more complicated than a normal layout.

I will be in touch.

One other suggestion (based on other modelling i have done), is for the L structure where you are simulating steel to sand the wood and seal it using sanding sealer (do one coat of the sealer, dry, sand, seal and prime). This stops the wood from absorbing the paint and also stops the grain from showing through as well, without having to use gloppy paint. Obviously, YMMV, and it may not be worth the effort of doing the sealing, but it can make a difference in how it will appear.

Bigkid:

Great tip on the seal and sand before assembly.

On my 1st test section I did not and learned the hard way. Amazing how much grain will rise up...looks like the L has a bad case of the fuzzies.

Question: Sanding sealer...any suggestions on brand? I can't seem to find it at the local big box home improvement turbo mega center. So, I've been using regular cheapo laquer primer....nothing labelled specifically as 'sanding sealer'. Just wondering if a product specificallly designed as a sealer might do a little better job than regular primer.

Thanks