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Harley, looks interesting.
One caution, you need to add some kind of cross braces to your table legs in two directions to prevent legs from folding up and everything collapsing. I use 1/2-inch plywood cut into triangles with 16-inch legs. One comment, remember that on the inner loop the length of a train consist is limited where you have the 90 degree crossover. Ron |
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I like it except for the figure 8. Thats alot of real estate lost. You might could do a over under figure 8 and run a longer train if you wanted to keep it.
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That would be my recommendation as well. Those legs are spaced a good distance apart, and some bracing would definitely be a good thing. My other concern would be access along the back and far end of the layout. Are you going to be able to reach things there--derailments, for example--or be able to work on scenery and accessories once you have things in place on the layout? Generally, everything on the layout should be within about a three-foot reach. Allan Miller, Editor-In-Chief O Gauge Railroading magazine |
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A concern that I would have (which has not be already said) would be on that inside loop with the figure 8, when you go through the switch off the figure 8, you have a lot of "s" curves. I Would be concerned about couplers opening up/cars derailing.
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With that much space,I would add elevation to give it some depth.
All the best, Hugh |
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Looks like it's gonna provide hours and hours of fun for someone.
Hey,get more scaled down figures.The ones you have in the corner look a little to big for "O" scale... Keep us posted with more pictures. Collin "The Eastern Kentucky & Ohio R.R." |
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Looks awesome Harley, definitely alot of room for running. Looks like you've got kids around to enjoy watching all the trains also.
What did you use for the top of the tables? It almost looks like kitchen countertop from the photos, but I could be wrong. Definitely agree on the cross bracing also for the legs. |
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As mentioned:
1 leg braces 2 elevation (lots of room to work with and it kills the limited train length that the fig 8 causes) But I saw where trestles were mentioned so it appears this has already been thought out. AND.......... from another thread where a guy crashed to the floor while standing on his table because he used drywall screws to fasten the legs (which it appears you might have done!).......through bolt the legs!! (Use 1/4 x 3 1/2, washers and self locking nuts. You won't be sorry. ) Looks like lots of room to have lots of fun, and perfect accessories in the photo to have fun with! Nice kids. Enjoy, Greg |
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Looks good to me, other than what has been mentioned already a dozen times with the bracing of the legs. I would pull the whole thing away from the wall about two feet to give yourself access to the back of the layout, you'll be sorry if you don't. I would also loose the figure 8 and instead have a small yard there with some operating accessories. Looks like you have lots of help there, you will have fun!!
Paul |
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Track layout is all a matter of personal preference, but I would pull out the inner track (the one with the figure 8) and put in a reversing loop, as switching the direction that the trains run adds some play value when I run my trains.
I also would definately bolt the legs to the frame and add some crossbracing of the legs (this will stop the legs from moving as well as reduce any wobble there might be in the tabletop). If you ever think that you will have to get on top of the table, I would also consider adding some additional cross members at the frame. It looks like a fun sized layout, and some happy kids who are ready to run some trains! Jim Route of Linganore Lines - where we still run them the 'old school' way! |
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Looks nice.
Two suggestions: 1) The leg cross-bracing is important. 2) Make sure that you can comfortably reach all parts of the layout from the edges. (oops a train derailed all the way in the back, can I reach it?) |
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Aside from the changes that were already mentioned, it looks like a nice layout. You have a nice crew to help you operate your railroad. Enjoy.
It think it is carpet padding. |
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Layouts are so hard man,it comes easy to some people,i have tried everything,i had 3 4x8 sheets on milk crates i had plastic tables with fiber board what a mistake that was, try lifting a 4x8 sheet of that lol,now i have a 1950's 3x6 aluminum table,with a 2" 4x8 sheet of pink insilation foam on top and its working very well for now,if i was ever to build a proper layout i would have to hire someone for the benchwork,but your display is really nice,it takes along time to complete some guys work on theres for 10 years.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman, "Where's the self-help section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose george carlin |
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Sorry,also with those little kids, you should make sure that thing is strong,there back there standing on it, danger!
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman, "Where's the self-help section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose george carlin |
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Looks good.
Before rushing off to "nail it down" you may want to take a couple of weeks to run some trains. You may find that you'll want to make changes - maybe a siding needs to be longer or maybe a siding is needed at (X), etc. Also check all track connections and test switches. As stated that figure 8 crossing will restrict your train length for that loop. Enjoy - you've got a great space to work with. Bill |
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Get those kids down offa there until you put some diagonal braces on the legs!!
Pete |
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The padding looks like a good idea,i was thinking of a product that they use called quit step its an underlayment for pergo floors,i wish someone would test every product with all the different track systems to find out whats the best noise dampener.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman, "Where's the self-help section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose george carlin |
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Great job. You will like the Fastrack as it is easy to change layout.
I built mine with 3/4 x 4x8 plywood, 1 1/2 inch pink foam set on sawhorses. I have had this since 2-09 and changed from 8 x32 ft to 12 x 24 changed track and switches numerous times. Fastrack has not been fastened down at any time and does not move. So run trains and enjoy! Bob Duckworth Bellevue, NE Head for the roundhouse, Nelly, they can't corner you there!!! |
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The layout looks very nice, but would you post a pic of the other end. It looks interesting but a closer view would be great.
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Very nice layout I would suggest Lionel engines with Magnatraction for use in photo #2 I don't think other rolling stock will stay on the track at that degree. Have fun run some trains!
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What you can't see in the picture is that there is a 2X4 screwed to the walls. The wall studs are 16" center so the entire back and side of the layout is then screwed down to these horizontal 2X4. This makes it impossible for the layout to then move in any direction. So the Braces are vertical and unless you kicked one I don't see how they could buckle.
As for the figure eight. I was going to use this for the older tinplate stuff from the 20's and 30's so train length didn't seem like an issue. It does take up a lot of realestate so I will contemplate that. The outer loop does have a reversing loop available to it. Now I need to figure out how high I need to elevate the track crossing above another track. Any suggestions? |
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Oh I used 7/16 OMD from home depot (less then $8 a sheet) then stapled carpet pad to it. After I get the layout right I have some green indoor outdoor carpet to give it some color and will also be slowly adding stuff such as mountains and elevation.
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