Hi Everyone. I'm sure this as been covered many times over the years, & I think I've picked up what I need reading a few recent related posts, but would like to confirm my understanding & maybe get a few opinions before taking action (& spending $).

I've got a Lionel operating gateman that I want to trigger when a train passes. I'm using Realtrax, so I don't think I can use the "weight bearing" mechanism that comes with the accessory. I'll probably use a Realrax infrared activation device, but I've got a few "issues" with it -

(1) It's not exactly beautiful... you'd think MTH could've made it look like something (other than a big blob of plastic). I can live with it (or cover it up myself)
(2) At $17+ a pop it's not cheap. Not a big deal since I'll only need a few at this point, but someday I might want a real layout with lots of operating items.

I've read where insulated tracks seem to be the long standing (& most prevelent?) solution... at least for conventional layouts. But, I've got a few questions on their use -

(a) Seems like most insulated tracks are relatively short. If it's only triggering / charging the accessory when the engine is passing over it, wouldn't this usually provide a very, very short "power time" for the accessory? Would it be long enough for the gateman to even get out the door?
(b) If (a) is in fact a consideration, would stringing multiple insulated tracks together lengthen the time of operation? Would this have consequences on the operation of the engine? i.e., would it get power through long stretches of insulated track?
(c) Looks like most insulated track is straight (& short). Is there a reason for this? Is it possible to make your own (e.g., if you wanted to trigger an accessory on a curved piece of track)?

Thanks for any knowledge / opinions!

Don

Hi Don
No easy answer to your question. It actually depends on what it is that you want to do.

Insulated track is the cheapest method. I don't think curve sections come insulated, but they might and you can make your own if you are a mind of. there is info about how but it is time consuming and why? While a single track is short, you can make the block as long as you care to by putting non-insulated tracks between two straight sections and those tracks can be curved it you'd choose to make it so. insulated str-curve curve -insulated str and you have a block big enough for most accessory trigger around a curve.

There are other options to Insulated Control blocks, but they tend to be as expensive as the ITAD Mth device you cite. They do require knowledge/purchase of relays to implement. There's plenty of info on the forum if you choose this path. There is a family of products like relay boards to activate accessories as well, again with out of pocket expense about the same. Cost is relative since some of these relay solutions alow for one device to activate multiple accessories, some use IR [like zstuff] and some use control rails.

Finding something off the shelf, plug and play....if you find one, post it, i'd be interested in it as well

ralph

Z-stuff and a couple of other companies make neat little trackside detectors to drive their signal systems and gates, etc.

This may be an over-simplification but I don't see why you can't create an isolated track block with RealTrax. Just bend back the electrical contact on the underside of the first track section (just one contact, either inside rail or outside rail), and the last track section of the block. Take a dremel and make sure that there is a gap between the isolated rail of the block and the regular powered block. When the front wheels of your engine hit the beginning of the block, that should activate the gateman. When the trailing wheels of the last car leave the block, the gateman should stop operating.
If you don't want to go that route, both MTH and Lionel make an infrared track activation device (ITAD) that looks like a trackside transformer. They list for $30 each.

quote:

Would this have consequences on the operation of the engine?

99.9% not at all as long as the track is fairly clean on the non-isolated rail.(and the engines wheels)

Everyone has an opinion on this and most all work very well.

For the best looking result you'll want to go the insulated rail way or the relay way or the box type Itad. The insulated way is the cheapest. (free)

The ITAD way looks nice (not the Railking one) but doesn't work all the time due
to various conditions. All Itads have a delay feature as well.

As for how long the insulated section needs to be, You need to know where the insulated track is in relation to the gateman. How fast do you run the Train(s) and do you run the train in both directions?

For a long train you may want to use a shorter track. for a short train, you may want to use a longer track. For both direction running you may want a longer track. For a fast train you may want a longer track.

All these things come into play.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Marty W.,

quote:

Originally posted by TrainPop:
This may be an over-simplification but I don't see why you can't create an isolated track block with RealTrax. Just bend back the electrical contact on the underside of the first track section (just one contact, either inside rail or outside rail), and the last track section of the block. Take a dremel and make sure that there is a gap between the isolated rail of the block and the regular powered block. When the front wheels of your engine hit the beginning of the block, that should activate the gateman. When the trailing wheels of the last car leave the block, the gateman should stop operating.
If you don't want to go that route, both MTH and Lionel make an infrared track activation device (ITAD) that looks like a trackside transformer. They list for $30 each.

I use Realtrax for my insulated sections. Just break off the contact on both ends of the same rail and solder a piece of 16 gauge lamp wire to the long metal strip piece left on on one of the ends. I used a Dremel cutoff wheel to shorten both ends about a 1/16" and there you have it. If you need a longer insulated section only break off one contact from the rail, put in as many sections as you need and break off the same rails contact from the end of the last piece and cut both ends short. Just make sur your power feeds don't have to go thru the insulated section since Realtrax doesn't power both outside rails like tubular does.

Welcome to the forum Don. Hopefully you'll be able to solve your problem with some of the advise given so far.

Steve Tapper

Good stuff! Think I've "got it" on the insulated track options now. Thanks everyone!

Don