After diddling around with my test track, I've finally decided on the early design of my future basement layout. The prominent feature will be a double-track around-the-walls mainline at 60" from floor level. Other features, such as yards, terminals, secondary mainline and subway stuff will be located on island-style tables at 54" and 48" levels.

The trackplan for the island tables is still up in the air. Complicating matters is the laundry infrastructure, gardening tools and lawn furniture that mysteriously took up "permanent" residence in the basement. The shelf mainline, although firm in trackplan, has to cross the backyard entrance, the stairway/front entrance hallway, and a bathroom entrance while passing over a washer, dryer and sink.

I've had to come to terms with the fact that I will never have a magazine-quality layout since there is literally no uncontested space anywhere in the basement or backyard. It means performing a level of enginneering I never thought I'd have to contend with when I signed those mortgage papers. Still, it'll have 072/080 curves, and this is where I ask to tap into the Forum's collective knowledge for the first phase of the project, namely:

What's the suggested width for a shelf that accomodates a double-track main on straight track?

No scenery other than ballast and maybe some signals is needed since the only spot long enough for any substantial scenery is needed for the ramps to access the future lower levels. Unlike the test track, most of this line will be anchored to the walls since space for columns along the walls is severely limited. I'd like to stick to standard lumber sizes since ripping long boards is mostly out of the question in the space I have available.

---PCJ

You can put a pair of tangent (straight) tracks on a 1 x 8 plank (which is 7.5" wide as I recall.) Putting the track on 3.5" centers leaves 2" on either side (centerline to edge.) A standard piece of railroad equipment is 10 feet wide, so that means a scale five feet (1.25") on either side of the center rail, so nothing could be closer than 1.5" from the center rail without risking being hit.

Now that I've expressed the absolute bare minimum, just put your straights on 1-foot wide decks and add more width to accommodate your curves and you should be fine. Centering the straight tracks will give you enough space on either side for signals and nominal scenery. I have a cut diagram for a 4 by 8 sheet of plywood somewhere that accommodates dual tracks spaced at 4.5" centers.

Here's where you can make the cut lines. This board style will support O-72/O-81 atlas curves. Two sheets of plywood cut in this manner will make an 11 by 11 square with four 3-foot straight sections available for other purposes.
Hope this helps.

Are there any guidelines for width on a single track shelf/baseboard/roadbed? I'm adding an 081 curve loop to my layout which I plan to elevate above the existing track. As in RailRide's post, I only need the width for signals and to anchor very minimal scenery, but I want the trains to clear the signals. Thanks for any help.

quote:

Originally posted by Bill Phillips:
Are there any guidelines for width on a single track shelf/baseboard/roadbed? I'm adding an 081 curve loop to my layout which I plan to elevate above the existing track. As in RailRide's post, I only need the width for signals and to anchor very minimal scenery, but I want the trains to clear the signals. Thanks for any help.

Nominally, 4" wide to support the track; add another inch to accommmodate a trackside signal for clearance.

Thanks!

Railride, Not sure if you have looked into it but you might consider getting up closer to the ceiling to avoid all your other issues.

I will post a link to my celing mount double track that runs with MTH DCS. I have a few crossing gates and some seneary but you could add what ever by having it just a little lower. This ceiling mount is about 8" from the underside of the ceiling. http://ogaugerr.infopop.cc/eve/forums?a=tpc&s=63160042&...211009374#9211009374

Railride, Here are some pictures to give you maybe more ideas.

Matt, your drawing is worth a thousand words. Very neat. Am I right in understanding the larger green pieces will be used for the curves? If so, do you think they would support O-72 and O-84? You've really the gears in my head turning now.

Popsrr, those are neat pictures but the basketball hoop would scare the heck out of me.

Hey Matt thanks for posting the template. I'll be using it in the fall when I install a ceiling system in one of the spare bedrooms.

quote:

Originally posted by Jamesh1083:
Matt, your drawing is worth a thousand words. Very neat. Am I right in understanding the larger green pieces will be used for the curves? If so, do you think they would support O-72 and O-84? You've really the gears in my head turning now.

Popsrr, those are neat pictures but the basketball hoop would scare the heck out of me.

The "L-shaped" pieces accommodate the curves and a straight section. These were based on a study I was doing for a temporary layout my wife wants me to set up for a Labor-Day BBQ she's having for some of her co-workers. It will accommodate Atlas O-90 which would put the rails 3 inches (centerline) from the outside edge, so O-84/O-72 would be within the limits. I was looking at Atlas O-81/O-72 since this layout would be taken down and stored when not in use.

Jamesh1083, Oh the hoops are for the fireman to shoot baskets as they pass above the rim

AGHRMatt:
Thanks for the template. It'll definitley be useful.

Popsrr:
I thought about a near-the-ceiling loop, but the basement has a variable ceiling height courtesy of a heating duct that feeds all the heat vents down the center of the house (it's a two-family).

I also considered situating the room loop so as not to require drawbridges or lift-out sections, but that would mean excessive ramp lengths to reach the table sections to be built afterwards. As it is, the connecting ramps will resemble Japanese elevated interlockings, but that's the only way to accomodate the kind of traffic I want to run. Oh, and there's still the backyard entrance to contend with.

---PCJ

Wow, that sounds exactly like the kind of challenges I'm facing with our basement. (200 year old victorian moved on top of an elevated foundation to give it a "garage" / basement, pillars, beams, ducts, pipes, conduits everywhere). Thanks to those who have shared useful information already, and I hope to see what RailRide comes up with for his space.

This sounds like what I have done.

I started with one reversing loop on an "island". Then I built along the walls leading to my next "island", a small yard/reversing loop. I had to cross two doors that lead to the furnace so they are rarely used. I made lift outs but it is not difficult to duck under the track either. I just made one section at a time.

Along most of the walls I installed 6' tracks for shelf brackets. I used 12" brackets and shelves. The bonus is I actually have some shelves above and below the RR.

I took my time and eventually made island #2. Since then I added more wall sections and island 3. Next I have to get past the laundry room entrance, that is going to be a challenge

Rand

I cut 3/4 inch plywood at our town museum just as Matt has drawn it. I used it for a G shelf layout. But I also added strips of wood to the back and front to help maintain the shape.

The board on the rear portion goes up so it is above the track board. This piece also acts as a nailer to the wall.

The board on the front goes below the track board and dresses up the front edge. A side profile would be a S shape.

Don

On my site I have a start to finish pictures of my wall mounted set.

http://nepaview.piczo.com/?g=48860924&cr=4

two sides have double tracks, one a siding (two switches) the other a spur (one switch) both are O-72 and I determined for the two double track sides a 1 X 12 worked out. The single track sides are 1 X 6. I did have to make a little stubs for the signals but it also makes them more viewable from eye level. I also used pylasters since I could add a second level and I already added two shelves for storage of equipment (also shown on my web page)

Mike

I have had the same problem the dream layout in the basement got bumped by living space and junk storage!

To make the best of it I have a loop that runs on top of the washer and dryer and wash tub when I want to run takes a few seconds to layout a bit of sectional track and a board to bridge the gap, that works for the end loop.

The side wall has 4 levels of track. Bottom on top of some old dressers and storage area is 2 feet wide for my main yard.

2 other levels above I used some old closet doors so they are 18 inches each and I used L white shelf "L" brackets fairly cheap, mounted into the studs. 12 and 14 inch lengths work well.

For what you are talking about a double track mainline I have 8 inch wide straight sections and 9 inch on the curves for bit more space between the tracks for longer train engines / cars. These are mounted similar to the pics above near the ceiling clears the doors around the rooms. And my 2 rail 2 track mainline loops through 2 rooms. Works fine when you stand back a bit you can see the trains running.
I used L brackets to mount these and in the middle of the room ran coat hanger wire down from the ceiling joists wrapped around screws in the trackbed and ceiling joists. Center of room also has a 2x4 sticking up from the layout below with shelf brackets either side.

There are always ways to fit this all in if you work at it!
Good luck with your project have fun and show us the results!

quote:

Originally posted by AGHRMatt:

Matt, thanks for the tip, but the more I look at your drawing the more it reminds me of one of those trick of the eye illusions.







Sorry for taking this thread off on a tangent.

quote:

Originally posted by Keystone:

quote:

Originally posted by AGHRMatt:

Matt, thanks for the tip, but the more I look at your drawing the more it reminds me of one of those trick of the eye illusions.

...

You caught me. I admit it. I'm an Eischer fan.

quote:

kj356

Luckily for me I don't have support posts to deal with. The widest portion of the basement is 18' across and is uninterrupted space (uh, not counting the 'house clutter'. The basement as-built is also finished floor to ceiling, so no real work is necessary to to make the space "livable".

My mainline will also have to pass over a washer, dryer and "washtub" sink. Fortunatley, at 60" high (runs across the top of an upright freezer) the track will clear all appliances without additional lift-out sections. But I will need three to span the hallway to the front entrance and stairs to the "first floor" (my basement is actually only slightly below street level), the bathroom (door swings out 2') and the backyard entrance.

Of the three, only the backyard will require raising/lowering/removing the bridge to use the door--the other two are probably going to be pseudo vertical-lifts so as to clear pedestrian traffic when not operating. During an operating session we're only talking ducking a few inches for the average man. Female family members/ relatives/ visitors likely won't have to duck at all

I've already had a little experience with this from building the 'test track', jigsawing curve modules out of 4x8's using a DD40 on 072 track to mark out the boundaries of the curves, which can't in most cases have a great deal of space not devoted to holding tracks up. Supporting the trackbed will indeed become inventive in the short curved span over the dryer, since it will lie between two lift-out (lift-up) sections.

Right now, I'm considering cranking up Google SketchUp to see if I can lay it all out in 3D.

---PCJ

quote:

Originally posted by DMASSO:
The board on the rear portion goes up so it is above the track board. This piece also acts as a nailer to the wall.

The board on the front goes below the track board and dresses up the front edge. A side profile would be a S shape.

I really like these shelf brackets (although they look a little short for the width of the board they're supporting. Where did you get them?

I was considering something like this...

(Home Depot item, it's just the shelf support--the other stuff doesn't come with it, natch)
...but the specifications reveal a unusually low capacity (10 pounds), so maybe I'll need to look for something metal (the wall is paneled, so I was hoping to get something that doesn't stand out too much.

---PCJ

Here is center of my room;

Lower level for kids O-27
Middle shoulder height 2 rail switching layout
Ceiling level is 2 rail 2 tracks looping basement through 2 rooms.
Note the supports for center of room on the supports for the free standing layout.

This shot shows the side wall, lower 3 rail then 2 rail above on 3 levels. mid 2 are 18 inches, Top is the ceiling loops 8 to 9 inch wide with L shelf brackets for the top 3 levels.


This shows 3 levels by washer dryer.
Middle loops 2 rail side wall yard to 2 rail switching layout in middle of room first photo.
Top in this photo is a switching area for the side shelf.

Bottom on washer dryer is where the temporary track can run over washer dryer to loop back for the 3 rail yard on the bottom shelf links the back and forward tracks. This runs into another room so can run 3 or 4 trains looping around between the 2 rooms.



This shows the double track mainline that runs over the door near the ceiling with the L brackets. I had to cut down the door to fit note top of door behind the tracks.
Ceiling is a bit low so top level layout height is just over 6 feet high! just enough to clear most everyone that comes through.

quote:

Here's where you can make the cut lines. This board style will support O-72/O-81 atlas curves. Two sheets of plywood cut in this manner will make an 11 by 11 square with four 3-foot straight sections available for other purposes.
Hope this helps.

it will also make an 8 x 14 layout