I need some input am thinking of buying a M9 2-6-0 SP I assume this is the whaleback tender model? from 3rd rail how good are these compared to other manufacturers? do they really sound as good as they do in video? or was the video of a 2 rail and not with the tmcc model sounds? I have to admit the video sound made them sound so real not the usual sounds we hear. I would appreciate any input from you folks who have either seen or own one thanks $oo

If you are talking about the video from the 3rd Rail website it is the 3 rail version with TMCC. I agree with you, it does look and sound great. I'm thinking about getting one myself. Oh and the 3 rail TMCC version only comes with the whale back tender because the larger size is needed for the electronics I believe.



John.

I love the 3rd rail engines! While I can't comment on this engine specifically, if you are not happy with a 3rd rail loco, you can return it for a full refund after 30 days.

Alex

Yeah the 3rd rail Steam Locomotives are really nice and do sound great!! You will not be sorry. I have never seen the model you are interested in, but I am sure it will be beautiful.

For what it's worth, Scott Mann is certainly one of the good guys in the industry and actually listens to what the modeling community has to say. His small run approach is a great system for those discriminating modelers who want an excellent quality model, but cannot afford a high end import brass product like a Key, Precision or Kohs.

3rd Rail products go through extensive research and review. The SP mogul looks great from the photos and fills a necessary void in the small steam market.

$OO,

I have seen the SP Mogul on a layout, and it is a beauty. You should not be disappointed.

Yves

Absolutely great company to deal with, good ol fashion sales and service.

Great product. 3rd Rail engines run well, have very exquisite detail. Only one drawback to 3rd Rail Engines. They are very delicate. That means they either go on display on a shelf or if your an operator, they go on the track and stay there. Sooner or later if you move them around from the house to the club layout, if you don't have your own layout, something will break on the brass detail. No matter how hard you try you will do something that will break a piece of detail off. I know. I have two 3rd Rail engines. An Anniversary Big Boy and a PRR Q2, both in 3 rail. The big boy is a beautiful piece. But I had a wiring problem once and I took the shell off to fix it. What a nightmare that turned out to be. I put the shell on its back and forgot to tape the little brass doors that swing out and one of the hinges was damaged. Then another time I went to take the engine off the shelf and put it in a storage case for bringing to the club layout. I did not hold the front set of drivers correctly and they swung around and broke some brass tubing. I was able to glue the door shut, not a big deal if I can open it. And I was able to glue the tubing back. They should be soldered but the parts are not structural and the crazy glue is holding up well. In fact 3rd Rail recommends using JB Weld on small brass piece repair. The other way is resistance soldering with an American Beauty soldering iron. So for an operator, its dicey to own a 3rd Rail engine unless your real careful when moving it around. But sooner or later....

Phil

Handling brass steam locos has always been a dicey act, given the nature of their construction and detailing.

The New York Society of Model Engineers came up with something that can be useful in moving about and storing steam loco models with minimal damage. However your layout and the club's layout both need a special 'docking' track.

NYSME in trhe late 1930's I think, designed a model locomotive carrying case made of wood. The cover was attached with snap clips to a 1" thick base, upon which two strips of brass for rails are mounted. The case of course would be made to fit the model in question.

Both layouts need a docking track, where a carrying case base built to correct standards can be placed to line up with the rails. Contacts on the rails match those on the box base to energize the brass strips. That way the loco can be moved on or off the box base under its own power. No hands! I saw this in operation at the Kingston NY Model Railroad Club some years ago and it worked quite well.

The cover is made to fit reasonably close around the loco but there are other methods that could be used, such as padded sides with hinges to gently hold the model in position as the top and ends of the case are attached.

I've come up with a servicing rack based on that carrier case idea. Made of thin plywood in a 90 degree V shape with two 1/2" x 4" supports, it is lined with some scrap carpet. It needs fit the longest steam loco on one's layout. Placed over a loco standing on its carrier case base, the entire thing can be picked up: base, loco and rack. It helps also to have a hunk or two of soft foam cut to fit the tender top so it stays in a relatively correct position

Carefully turning the whole thing upside down and removing the carrier base sets the loco "wheels up" for cleaning and lube work. To put it back on the layout, the base is placed over the wheels making certain they are 'on track.'
Turning the rack, loco and base right side up and placing the base into the dock section, the loco can be moved off, no hands. It works nicely for well detailed diesels too.

Ed Bommer

It all depends on the engine. I have to be careful with the ears on my Niagara, Some piping on my Hudson but for the most part they are no worse than diecast. Let's not forget all the brass ad on detail that diecast engines come with. 3rdrail engines by far are the best runners.

ptalar,

I strongly disagree! I have more than a dozen 3rd Rail steam locomotive models, and transport them regularly to our Independent Hi-Railers, Midwest Division modular layout shows, with out problems. The key is, however, I use Plano plastic tool boxes for transporting and NOT the original 3rd Rail packing/shipping boxes. I have 19" & 20" tool boxes for two cylinder models and 26" tool boxes for the long articulated models. I also have my own layout, but not near enough roundhouse storage space for all the steam models I have, so each model has its own "storage/transport" tool box. Works great for me and my other modelers in our modular group.

I certainly do NOT consider my 3rd Rail models any more "delicate" than my MTH premier highly detailed steam models!

Hot Water,

You have been lucky. I also carry my engines to the club in a modified rifle case with foam. But there is a lot more brass detail on the 3rd Rail engines than MTH Premier. I compared the engines side by side. The MTH engine I compared to was the 2006 reissue of the MTH Big Boy to the 3rd Rail Anniversary Big Boy that I have. That is what makes 3rd engines so exquisite and such nice pieces to own. It also makes them more delicate when handling. Maybe I am a klutz or I am unlucky but everybody has a different experience. I think we can all agree that moving MTH Premier and/or 3rd Rail engines around and repairing them takes much planning and caution. I had a bad experience with the Big Boy but I have had no issue with my 3rd Rail Q2. But then again, it does not appear to have the same level of detail as the Big Boy. That engine was issued by 3rd Rail in 1998, as I recall.

I just wish I could of turned back time and just sent the Big Boy back to 3rd Rail to fix the bad wiring. Shipping engines is another pandoras box. But I won't go there.

If I knew a good brass repair shop I would consider getting the glue repair on the Big Boy redone with soldering. Although after gluing and painting its not noticeable. Its just not the way it came from the factory.

Phil

The best way to handle brass sream locos is to pick them up with one hand on the cab sides and the other hand on the front cylinders. I have alot of MTH, Sunset and Lionel articulateds and I have never had a problem. Make sure you have stable footing on the ground and handle them gingerly.

You are dealing with 2-rail construction techniques. Sunset is about the most robust of all of them when it comes to sturdy construction. No way do they compare with die cast, unless you drop both on the concrete.

The Mogul turned out quite well. I did a review for OSN, and in the process talked with Joe Dale Morris and Frank Scheer, both of whom have extensive experience with the real thing. Joe Dale was involved in the rebuild of #1744, and Frank refurbished #1785.

I could look at my writeup to see if I found serious flaws, but from memory the only one of any significance at all was the way the headlight bulb could shine behind the headlight casting - easily fixed with a dab of black paint.

I am only qualified to the extent that I have built two SP Moguls from scratch, and actually pulled the throttle on an M4.

I have seen the both the 3 and 2 rail Moguls run. They are both outstanding models. The sound is awesome. I have several 3rd Rail engines. All of them are smooth runners and great models. You should be pleased with any 3rd Rail purchase.

Happy Rails, Joe

The only reason I started modeling in three rail O in addition to HO is due to the excellent offerings from 3rd Rail. They are an excellent value for the money.

As Hot Water stated above, I have not had any problems transporting my 3rd Rail locomotives to and from shows. The ONLY issue I had is I have been wearing off the white striping on my units from handling. Since I weather my locos, it just makes them look more used.

I haven't had any problems with details. But then again, I do take some care in handling my locos, and they are properly transported in toolboxes first wrapped in tissue paper, and then in bubble wrap.

Regards,
Jerry

I have never had a problem with Sunset 3rd Rail engines in terms of running or cnstruction. For the money they are the best out there. I have alot of Sunset's large steamers. They are always reliable. They are the closest to the construction of the old KTMs and surpasses them in many respects. The mechanisms are first rate and the drive systems are hidden in the frames so you don't see the unsightly gear boxes of the earlier models (KTM etc.). you should prize any 3rd Rail engine you have.

Buying my first brass engine (a third rail of course) was a little scary. I thought that the engine was so fragile that I would need to wear gloves when handling it (stupid right .) It is a little more fragile then a high end diecast loco, but if you can handle detailed diecast, you can handle brass.

I have 6 3rd Rail engines. I've had good luck with most, and Scott Mann fixed those that did have problems. I even had my J1-a go head first into a concrete floor when my (then) 2 year old grandson grabbed it as it went by. The headlight was smashed, the front ladders was detached and the main plate under the cab was broken away. With the help of a Precision Scale headlight, some epoxy and Brunswick Green paint, the engine was restored to good health. It would have destroyed a die-cast engine.

What I like best about third rail is their silent cog-belt drive with the Pittman motor. They run flawlessly!

I don't have any TMCC controlled engines (although I'd like one) so I can't review that aspect.

Myles

quote:

What I like best about third rail is their silent cog-belt drive with the Pittman motor. They run flawlessly!

And now with upcoming engines with ERR cruise commander and no EOB whine, with the sound off you won't hear a thing