Would an owner (former owner)of this early brass, scale locomotive please share a copy of the instruction manual with me. While I hardly ever throw anything away, I've managed to misplace the instruction manual for this old unit. While I believe that I will eventually find the booklet, I would like to review the instructions for an item now.

Glenn Fresch, TCA

Glenn,

I don't know if you ever found your instructions, but I have instructions for at least 4 of my 7 Williams brass locos. I do not have the B6, but the instructions seems to be fairly generic outside of the loco diagram.

Would that help?

I have two of them, and probably could answer a question if it is not related to electronics. One came from Williams as a 2-rail model; the other was converted in my shop, which means I became fairly familiar with most of the mechanical parts. I traded a Gem B6 for one of them - that's how highly I regard this model.

Bob,

Curious how the Williams version is so compelling that you traded a Gem for it. Was it functionality, quality of detail or something all together different?

I would like to add one to my roster someday and just wondering what spurred your decision.

This is opinion - some of the 2 rail stuff that was imported after the demise of USH is sort of flimsy. The Williams stuff is quite sturdy, and appears to my non-PRR eyes as quite accurate. It certainly runs better.

The Gem O-6-0 had the double window cab, which I like, and I may convert a Williams B6 to that cab someday, but I have a Lionel B6 with that cab, and it looks ok.

My Gem O-4-0 Camelback came without a boiler in the cab, and the wheels fell off. I rebuilt the wheels and added a piece of brass, but it cannot compare with the stuff Williams brought in.

And beware - in my opinion some of the incredibly high priced stuff that was imported in the late seventies and on is pure junk, both mechanically and in some cases cosmetically.

Opinion - I know you know that, but there are others who have jumped my "facts" and I'd just as soon not get jumped this week.

I appreciate the input. I have been pleased with all of my Williams brass to date. The Challenger is far and away the most competent runner. It will run for hours on modules at nice slow speeds. My Niagra is probably the touchiest and needs to have the rods and wheels greased a lot more often. My T1 looks great, but the pony truck is not balanced well so it does a good job of pointing out any out of gauge 072 track.

Some I don't run lacking proper cars, such as my CNJ Camelback. One of these days someone will step and make these passenger cars and they are guaranteed and order from me. Bethlehem Ship Builders steel coaches of 1928 and the correct observation to go with it would be plenty, although a baggage coach would be welcome too.

Having been pleased with all of my brass Williams for the price I accept that they are not the latest and greatest and do lack certain details, but I would consider purchasing more. Nice mostly scale product for the price and upgradable to modern electronics fairly easily.

I too have the Williams PRR T1 - 2-railed, of course. We put a slug of brass around the axles of the lead truck, and that keeps it on the rails. I have the Williams/Sunset S2 as well - it needed big slugs of brass on both trucks - the trailing truck was the big offender.

The Challenger was well detailed, but seemed undersize. I really like the N&W "J" - but I am happy with it as a non-rivet counter, since I do not normally do Norfolk & Western.

I am pleased with J as well. It is another stellar performer and mine came with QSI sound. One of the few Seuth units that still works for me too. The Challenger is a little short, but is still impressive on the rails. I think to make up for it my K4 is long on the smokebox (a compromise for 3R I understand). The USRA Mikado of 1990 is another well detailed model that I am pleased with. Most of the 1990 production was really pretty decent stuff.

Thanks for the tip on the pony truck on the T1. I'll have to give that a try. That still has the original sound system and it just plain .... well sucks ash pans!

I have 4 williams brass pieces and only one is a dog. The three good pieces that run like tops. The three good pieces are a 4-6-0 camel back, a 2-8-2 scale mikado, and the 0-6-0 switcher wich runs fantastic. THe dog is the brass sharknose diseals i bought.
One thing i like is that unlike the 3rd rail K-4 i had bought where i has allways bending something or knocking off some delicate piece the williams stuff is much more tough and not so overloaded with tiny details to knock off. Just a small silly thing but it means a lot to me.
Bill

I have 2 Williams cab forwards, which I had superdetailed. I had one repainted and numbered for AC-11 4272 and the other I weathered. One needs some electronic work done. It only lights up when the power is turned on and I think it is one of those wiring plates on the top of the driver frames that needs to be resoldered. Williams models do not sell for much on the current market but they are built solidly. You could buy one for comparatively little money, superdetail it and improve the drive mechanism if you wish and have a great piece for little money.