I am curious as to some techniques used to cut out holes in plastic that is too thick to cut with an exacto knife, and I cannot use a band saw as well. Any ideas. Thanks to all that reply.

In all of the house models that I've made the walls are either styrene clapboard, brick, foundation block, or stone.

I have always used a utility knife, not an exacto. Much sturdier blade and that's IMPORTANT. I make my own windows and don't buy Grandt line - that's why I have to keep things straight, square, and clean.

I make many light passes (4 or 5) and cut all the way thru. You can't really use the score and snap technique with a window or door opening, except for possibly the final cut (which I've never done though). I have had good luck with this approach.

I've read articles of other techniques but why fool with what works for you, right?

- walt

sir-i use .040 thick strene(plain)-which is not too
thick or thin.i make templates of the windoes and door
openings to cut out.after they are cut out-i place the next layer
on top-clapboard,novelty siding.since the back is already cut out
all you have to do is recut with sharp x-acto knife(carefully and slowly from the back the window and door openings.i been using >060 thinkness for my back walls as i like to scratch-build my buildings with a little strength.i use a old screw-drive and heat it over a flame and place hot
tip of center of window template and burn a hole thru the plas-struck sheet and wittle shape of window frame out due to thickness of plastic.just my way.try .040 plain strene and place outer layer on top for decoration.
bevel corners of walls at 45 degrees so they butt together.make sure you have a square for the walls to set perfectly.place a plas-struct strip
to seal the 2 walls together for strength.joe

How about a circular saw.

I use two properly sized blocks of wood and a roto bit in a Dremel. One has a hole in the center the other accepts a screw in the center. Just hold the first block in the right location and drill a hole in the plastic. Then screw the second block in from the back with a wood screw. Now trace around it with the Dremel riding on the block. It makes nice clean holes. I did make a nice flat base to attach to the bottom of the Dremels router attachment.

Gizzmo

One of the best investments I've made was the purchase of thisMini Scroll Saw. Since it uses pinless blades all you need to do is drill a small hole in the middle of your opening, insert the blade through the hole and insert the blade back into the saw. This takes about 10 seconds and you're set to cut a perfect opening. I'm a big fan of mini bench top power tools and have a table saw, drill press, and now a scroll saw.

Gizzmo,
I am having a bit of difficulty picturing the 'two block method' you described. I looked on the token3rail blogspot and did not see any photos of the technique. Is there somewhere else I could look? I enjoy your posts, and thanks for your contributions.
All the best,
Brad

Brad,
I have a couple of full days heading my way but I'll try to get some photos up Thursday or Friday.

But for now, Cut a pc of 3/4" ply the exact size of the window opening you need. Drill two 1/16" holes along the center no closer than 1/4" to the top or bottom of the window opening. Now make a second block only this one will be twice the diamiter of you cutting bit SMALLER in height and width. The reduced size allows the cutter to be run against the outer edge producing the full sized cut needed. Clamp the smaller block to the larger getting it nice and centered. now run the 1/16" bit through the first set of holes to transfer them to the second smaller one. Make sure you mark the face of both blocks so you'll keep the hole orientation (top and face )the same. One more item. I took a pc of ply about 5" square and using a jig saw cut a square hole in it about 1" larger than the window dimensions.

OK, Now you have the blocks heres what to do.
Mark the panel to be cut with the window location. Using the larger block, locate it in place and drill through the panel. Take the smaller block,oriented the same way, and secure it to the panel from the back with 2 wood screws. Place the frame over/around the block. Now you have a rather wide chanel to insert the Dremel into and keeping it against the center block make your cut.

IMPORTANT! Make sure you go around the block in a counter clockwise direction. The cutting action of the bit will help to push the bit up agains the block. And set the bit deep so the SHAFT of the cutter rides on the block not the FLUTES. You may have to clean up the starting and ending points but with a bit of practice this works real well.

If the inside can be scarred or you are working with wood panels you can make a frame the exact size of the opening and drive in some small brads so the points just break through the surface ( four should do ). Mark the window location on the back side of the panel. Now press the frame against the backside and run the cutter in the middle to cut the opening. You'll need a second frame under the panel with a larger cutout and mounted to the table to make room for the cutter to poke through. Again It works very well.This is how I did my boat-works.

I have another setup but I reserve that one for when I have alot of openings to make.



Hope this helped, Gizzmo

I think it is like "pattern routing". Dave G.

OK so I'm long winded !
Gizzmo