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I am attempting to fade the lettering on a lionel tender. It is a pannsy tender with gold lettering. I tried paint thinner on a paper towel and erasers. Still I can't get any results. This stuff is really on there good. Anyone have any suggestions.
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stevin,
Trying to remove some of the ink/paint is more likely to result in missing letters than fading. I think you are better off trying to cover the lettering somewhat with a weathering wash or chalks. Even better, this would be a good project for your new airbrush. Thin some grayish black paint (such as Floquil PolyScale "Grimy Black") to a very thin consistency. Then mist a light spray over the entire tender. This will fade the lettering. When you see the results, you'll want to do the engine too. Practice first on some scrap plastic. If you can see individual spray dots, the paint isn't thin enough. Go easy with the spray. Don't let it wet the surface. You want a light enough spray so that it will dry almost instantaneously. Keep going back until you get the desired effect. But, stop just before you think it's faded enough. It's easy to overdo the effect. This New Haven electric got that treatment. Originally the yellow striping was way too bright as compared to what I was used to seeing on the real ones.  Another result of the grimy black spray. For this one, I made a series of vertical passes with the airbrush to produce some indistinct vertical patterns on the tender.  Jim |
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Thank you, I will try that when the airbrush arrives. Im expecting it any day now. I posted some pictures on the 3 rail forum of what I did so far to the enine and tender. Tell me what you think.
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stevin,
I just checked out your photos. Looks good. My only suggestion would be to use shades of gray and only the slightest trace of rust color. Most in-service steam engines weren't allowed to rust. But weathering makes a huge difference, doesn't it? If you practice the overspray technique, you'll find that you can go over the chalk application to tie everything together and make it more subtle. Personally, I think weathering is most effective when it's done with restraint. In fact, when I use chalk now, I don't use a clear spray to seal it. I use the grimy black spray instead to seal, blend, and soften the effect at the same time. I think you're going to enjoy the results you get with the airbrush. Jim |
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stevin,
Just checked out the newest photo - after airbrushing. Very, very nice. You've got the new airbrush working nicely already. If you are like I was when I discovered the airbrush, no piece of rolling stock will ever be safe again! One piece of advice that I had to learn the hard way - just do a car or two at a time. You don't want everything weathered the same way. For some models, just some light chalk will provide a nice contrast to the more heavily weathered items. Look at some prototype examples of weathering and try to duplicate them. Happy railroading, Jim |
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Thanks for the advice Jim, your right no rolling stock will be safe around me now.
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Hey Jim I was rereading the technique you speak of above, and I really do like the effect it gives, could this also be used over the entire layout or an industrial area to make it look kinda dirty. There are pictures of a layout somewhere on the forum from a guy named Dave, I cant find his last name, but I love the weatehring throughout theentire layout. Its almost like there is a layer of dust over everything and it gives a really nice feeling. Have you used this technique on other things than trains? Could you show me some pictures if so? |
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stevin,
I think that's Dave Connolly you are referring too. I like the overall look to his layout also. He posted a while back describing the weathering colors he uses. A search might find it. He posts under the name Dave_C. If he sees this, I'm sure he'll chime in. I seem to remember him saying that he uses light tans and beiges to get that effect. It's really nice. His layout was featured in CTT not too long ago also. I sometimes use the airbrush on buildings for weathering, but, lately, I've been using washes of color and lots of drybrushing. If you spray everything with the same color, sometimes the whole scene looks too drab. The world is weathered but still has lots of color. You don't want it too muted. Jim |
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