Ok...so I needed to build custom portals to fit exactly where I need them, and I wasn't sure where to start. I decided I would experiment with what I already had sitting around the house. I had purchased a set of portals that I used as a guide to get started, and then I trimmed according to my needs. I intentionally scraped some of the edges so it would look as though the block had been roughed up over the years. Sorry that I don't have an progress pics, but you can see below what one looks like weathered vs. just with primer.

I took a piece of styrofoam, and cut out a portal. I trimmed it to the size I needed. Then I used some primer/sealer that I had used to prime/seal my drywall in my train room, prior to painting. I knew I had to do this in preparation for the next step. After the primer dried (a generous coat of primer, mind you, I sprayed the portal with gray primer. I even put on a 2nd coat of primer in some places.

I had some of the GarGraves track blades lying around, so I just used that as a guide to cut in my blocks. I held one blade down, and used another one to puncture through the coat of paint, creating the blocks. I cut a piece of small sturdy paper to use as a guide for the blocks around the top of the arch, and I also cut, out of foam board, a keystone for at the very top. I glued the keystone in place.

I then used a series of light washes, allowing each step to dry before proceeding to the next. First, I used a white wash, just dabbing here and there, then using a paper towel to blot up the excess. Then I repeated with a burnt umber wash, raw umber wash, and a dark green/brown wash.

Finally, the black wash with a fine brush, trying to keep it primarily in the creases between the blocks. I might go back and add more black wash, but we'll see.

First, two pictures of one painted/weather and one that's just been primed.





A closer picture of just the finished product:



Closeup of one that's just been primed:



Closeup of just the sides of the portals, one finished and one not.



I am not pleased with the top of the finished one, where I tried to build up the black, but it's going to have to do for my first time. Any suggestions on how to improve these? I'll landscape around, attach lichen, etc. once on the layout.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Catch-22,

I think that looks awesome! It looks like the expanded styrofoam, right? The stuff that comes off in beads when you cut it.

May try to make joints in stone larger, and add some moss color to the blocks. When you finally install sprinkle some ballast the same shade as the rock to simulate the crumbling you have carved out.

I was looking into casting some of these for my layout, but after seeing this I will give the foam a try!

Kurt

Mighty fine work, Steve. You do have talent. The finished one looks great to me. Just stand back 3 feet or so an look at it. You will agree.
.....
Dennis

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......Looks great Steve! You could add more weathering if you want, but I think it looks like a finished pc. right now ! Keep up the good work.

quote:

Originally posted by kpolak:
I think that looks awesome! It looks like the expanded styrofoam, right? The stuff that comes off in beads when you cut it.

May try to make joints in stone larger, and add some moss color to the blocks. When you finally install sprinkle some ballast the same shade as the rock to simulate the crumbling you have carved out.

I was looking into casting some of these for my layout, but after seeing this I will give the foam a try!

Kurt

Yup.....the beaded styrofoam. Once I loaded up on the white primer, it pretty much sealed any beads from crumpling during the rest of the process. The spray gray primer made it even more sturdy. Sadly, the photos really don't bring out the colors that I did use to weather. The raw umber and burnt umber washes are more noticeable in person.

The dark green that I tried to make didn't turn out so well, so I might have to add a few splashes of that once I'm able to get some different paints.

quote:

Originally posted by Dennis:
Mighty fine work, Steve. You do have talent. The finished one looks great to me. Just stand back 3 feet or so an look at it. You will agree.
.....
Dennis

Thanks, Dennis. For my first attempt, I really can't complain. Nice thing is, the only thing it cost me up to this point to make it was time. I already had the supplies.

quote:

Originally posted by Jeff Remy:
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......Looks great Steve! You could add more weathering if you want, but I think it looks like a finished pc. right now ! Keep up the good work.

Thanks, Jeff. The weathering really doesn't show up in the pictures for some reason. I'm no photographer, that's for sure In person, it does stand out a bit more, so you'll just have to take my word for it

It looks like individual granite blocks, and would feel right at home on the Pennsylvania Railroad. Nicely done, any plans for a double portal?

quote:

Originally posted by pennsyk4:
It looks like individual granite blocks, and would feel right at home on the Pennsylvania Railroad. Nicely done, any plans for a double portal?

I run primarily PRR engines, so that's why I chose that particular design and put the Keystone at the top.

I don't believe that any area of the layout I'm building will require a double, but I will have to build another pair of singles at some point.

WOW! that really looks great, especially with that wash on. honestly it looks like a professionally packaged product ... but nothing beats the feeling you get after building something on your own.

if you are interested, check out TMM's thread on painting and detailing his plastic tunnel portals either here on the forum or below when clicking on the token three railer link.

keep up the great work!

Styrofoam is the way to go; I use it to create all sorts of heavy looking structural elements.

By the time you plant those on the layout no one will know they aint store bought.

Look good.

On the disc I bought the author says to use a lead pencil for making the grout lines. File the lead point to a triangle and scribe away.

Thanks for all of the compliments, folks.

It was a fun project, and I already noticed tonight a place where I'm going to need a retaining wall. I will probably use a similar approach to make a custom wall. Will take some time, but that's part of the fun of it!

It looks like the black smoke redidue was made using a black wash, If you want to improve that I would use chalks for the smoke residue, it gives a more realistis feel.

quote:

Originally posted by stevin:
It looks like the black smoke redidue was made using a black wash, If you want to improve that I would use chalks for the smoke residue, it gives a more realistis feel.

You are correct. I didn't have any chalks at the time, but that's on my list to get. I should have held off on that feature of the portal until I had them.

On mine a light spray from a can of flat black paint did a nice job of smoke on the keystone.

Catch-22,

Also, don't forget to line the interior of your tunnel. I used thin wall paneling and painted it Charcoal color.





Cesar

Looks great. But just a word to the wise. Aside from the scenery aspects I'd be real careful on building any tunnel entrances and be sure they will accomodate the biggest locos you're ever likely to own. Entrances on curves are the real problem. Take some measurements. If you don't know the measurements, use the biggest entrance you think appropriate then enlarge it still more. Otherwise, the good looks will probably be damaged or compromised later when a remodeling is required.

They have a nice tunnel/mountain double track entrance at the local hobby shop and after they let me run scale articulated engines, can you guess who got the job of fixing the entrance? We thought it was wide enough. Anyway, the "encroachment" was minor but noticeable. I used a pocket knife as a temporary widening repair, but something more permanent and a lot better looking is needed. That's just in the FWIW department and I hope is helpful.

quote:

Originally posted by FatBoy:
Catch-22,

Also, don't forget to line the interior of your tunnel. I used thin wall paneling and painted it Charcoal color.

Cesar

My portals have not been installed as of yet, but I do have a plan for making the interior of my tunnel.

quote:

Originally posted by ginsaw:
Looks great. But just a word to the wise. Aside from the scenery aspects I'd be real careful on building any tunnel entrances and be sure they will accomodate the biggest locos you're ever likely to own. Entrances on curves are the real problem. Take some measurements. If you don't know the measurements, use the biggest entrance you think appropriate then enlarge it still more. Otherwise, the good looks will probably be damaged or compromised later when a remodeling is required.

They have a nice tunnel/mountain double track entrance at the local hobby shop and after they let me run scale articulated engines, can you guess who got the job of fixing the entrance? We thought it was wide enough. Anyway, the "encroachment" was minor but noticeable. I used a pocket knife as a temporary widening repair, but something more permanent and a lot better looking is needed. That's just in the FWIW department and I hope is helpful.

ginsaw,
Yes, I have been quite careful with my engines and what will be going through my portals. Sadly, because of the way I have my layout, my entrances will be on slight curves, so I have factored that into the equation. I don't have the portals in front of me at the moment, so I don't know the dimensions off the top of my head, but I knew I needed height clearance for my scale GG-1s and the width, esp. because of being on a curve, not only for the GG-1s as well, but engines such as my biggers one like an MTH Q2 premier piece I have.

Catch-22,

Every once in a while I post this for those who may want another way to do tunnel liners.

They make a thin (1/4") foam for use under aluminum and vinyl siding. It is flexible so can be bent. Cut the liner from this and fit it into the area. Once satisfied that it fits properly remove it. Go outside with it and lay it in some gravel with the inside down. Jump up and down on it for a while. Now bring it back inside, weather it and reinstall it in your tunnel.

Catch-22, Just in case you don't know, you don't have to use weathering chalks any atrist chalks from michaels or art supply store will do the job. Just scrape a pile of chalk shavings and dip your brush in hairspray and then your shavings for streaks and dry brush for faded look.