This is my first attempt at scratch building and I have been wanting a turntable and roundhouse so I thought I would jump right in and start big. I am limited to the area in which to put a roundhouse so I have modified everything to fit the space. I had my son do a CAD drawings for me so I could cut all the wood for the roundhouse. I used a Bowser 24" turntable but the only thing I used was the pit bottom and hardware everything else was scraped and I made new parts. So here are some pictures of my progress please let me know what you think.

This is the turntable pit more weathering will be added.







This is the floor of the roundhouse not complete make from joint compound and painted concrete color.



This is the scratch build roundhouse. A lot of cutting and gluing.



One of the side walls of the roundhouse.



That's it so far, please your comments are welcome as to weathering, looks, anything I should do different, does it look realistic, etc.

Thanks Tracy

Tracy you are off to an excellent start!!!What are you going to use for driving the Turntable? Keep showing us the progress photos. Happy Railroading!!!-Don Klose

Don,
As of now I'm thinking of the PTC III I know others have products avaliblke but I want to find out more info on the PTC III.
I will post more pictures as I progress. Be forewarned its a slow build.

Thanks for your interest.
Tracy

Looks good!

Dave

Tracy:
It is always exciting to see this project come together for anyone's layout.
I really like what I see.

You may want to review these pages of my website. Click on the file folders to open. Continue if more file folders appear. Review the upper left corner of the page to access additional pages. Click on thumbnails to enlarge.
Turntable Roundhouse

Fort Pitt Hi-Railer's modular turntable.

My website

Best wishes on your project.
Mike CT

Looks really nice!

Hey MikeCT, How did you make the Gutters?






Was that common for a roundhouse?

Man, those gutters ARE nice. So is the rest of it.

Very nice and professional job on your turntable Mike. I like the details.

Tracy

both jobs look awesome guys
my hat off....
Andre.

Shoe, Jim, Tracy, Andre:

The gutter is 1/8" K&S brass C-channel. The downspouts are 1/16" solid brass rod. Downspout hangers are .020 brass wire. All parts were painted with Rust-oleum Camouflage (1920) Army Green. I was trying for a "verde" color that copper generates as it oxidizes. With some effort the brass C-chanel can be bent to fit the roof, being careful not to kink it. I used small brads to attach to the roof, requiring a drill press and #65 drill bit to drill the brass C-channel. The roof is 3/16" luan board with a piece of kappler lumber as (facia) trim band. With out a substantial roof structure the gutters would have been very difficult. Mitre corners were done in place with a Dremmel tool and bench disk/belt sander, then CA'ed in place. Once installed paint touch up was done.

Thanks all for the comments. Again it is nice to see other engine facility projects come together.

Best wishes,
Mike CT

Mike,
Enoyed all your photos! I'm still"track planning" and trying to get all the ideas I can. I really like the way your turntable/roundhouse is incorporated to the mainline, especially with the crossover and tower. Do you have a track plan to share.
Thanks,
Jim

Hi guys,
I have a Ross 33" Turntable, does anyone know about how far in inches that the Korber Roundhouse sits away from the edge of the Ross Turntable? I am building a 5 stall Roundhouse. I just need to know what the process is to start building this Roundhouse so that it is not too close.

Roger THIS might help.

Tracy

quote:

Originally posted by lioneljim:
Mike,
Enoyed all your photos! I'm still"track planning" and trying to get all the ideas I can. I really like the way your turntable/roundhouse is incorporated to the mainline, especially with the crossover and tower. Do you have a track plan to share.
Thanks,
Jim

Jim: I used Atlas freeware for a simple track plan. It was put together in three phases.

Original room:


The first part of the second room was a bit free lance but again I did use Right Tracks to place the TT and determine the two cross overs. Cutting and fitting pieces of Atlas track isn't all that hard.



The second part of the second room was again a layout done with Right tracks to work with The BTS Cabin Creek tipple.



Then I invited the Fort Pitt High Rail club over for consultation. That cost me an easy additional $300 bucks in switches. Final track layout has (6) more switches than what is shown. I also purchased the Atlas double track Pratt truss bridge for across the doorway.

I really had a lot of fun with this
Mike CT

Thanks Mike.
I assume that the bottom of the "second part of second room" coonect to the two tracks at the bottom of the track plan above. Great plan.

Jim

Yes Jim: It runs across the bridge on the other side of this door.







Kurt's Crossing and a couple more sidings.

Very nice turntables and roundhouses. I'm working on a KorModels roundhouse
and some of the walls are warped. Any suggestions on how to straighten them
out?
Thanks

quote:

Originally posted by JoeTheBro:
...I'm working on a KorModels roundhouse
and some of the walls are warped. Any suggestions on how to straighten them
out?
Thanks

JoeTheBro, there are a couple of things you can try. Put the walls between a stack of encyclopedias and let them flatten out over a week or so. Sometimes i have very lightly toasted mine in the toasteroven with the door open, and then pressed them flat. Please be careful doing this! It's one thing if i burn my dumbass, but i dont want to be responsible for you doing it too! Sometimes when i have been less daring, a hair dryer to heat the casting works pretty well too, it just takes longer.

Good luck,
Nick

Thanks nick b.. I was thinking of using the oven, BUT at a low setting(140)
with the walls pressed between two 16" floor tiles. Thanks also for the
warning. Take care
Joe

Just lay them flat and use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

OK RR, I'll try that too. I have a heat gun for heat shrink tubing. The oven thing
is really taking a long time ,cause of the tiles.
Thanks for the advice.
Joe