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Picture of MichRR714
Posted
I have a printed backdrop I would like to mount unto something around 1/8 thick for rigidity and keeping it flat. Would masonite be my best bet? Looking for some ideas. Any input would be appreciated.


Charlie a.k.a. MichRR714
TCA, LRRC
"I'm building the Charles, Lucas & North Railroad...every chance I can get in the train room!!!"
 
Posts: 152 | Location: Sterling Heights, Michigan | Registered:: February 05, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Yes, I've been completely satisfied with it. Easy to work with, reasonable to buy, comes in workable 2X4 size for those who don't own a minivan or pickup, takes glue and paint well. Plus, I've saved the sawdust from cutting it and mixed with other materials to simulate dirt.
 
Posts: 252 | Location: Virginia | Registered:: December 09, 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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TrainsRMe: That tip about the masonite saw dust is terrific.
MichRR714: I have built some scratch buildings and against the wall flat structures with 1/4 masonite with bracing on the inside to eliminate the chance for warping. Some modelers on the forum have experienced warping with masonite. I have not and that may be a factor of humidity and use of the product. Perhaps others will weigh in on this discussion. Good luck with your project.
 
Posts: 604 | Location: Kansas City, Missouri | Registered:: March 22, 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I put masonite up years ago,in the basement.Attached it to a cinder block wall with 1x2 furring strips and screwed the masonite to it.I drilled pilot holes in the masonite before attaching.i have had no warping or any other problems since installing.very versatile to work with.good luck
 
Posts: 38 | Location: audubon,n.j. | Registered:: March 20, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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1/4" luan plywood which actually measures 7/32" thick is a much more stable product. Because masonite absorbs moisture it should be brased to prevent warping. With luan you don't have that problem. However if you attach it like Rich B. did it'll last a lifetime w/o warping.


Wild Mary (AKA Nick)
"Riding The Wild Mary"
 
Posts: 1995 | Location: Baltimore, MD. | Registered:: September 25, 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Ho Kay Mr Meeeeechigander................

Gotta bone dry basement? NO mold mildew or humidity problem? Or is is the usual
Mich basement with the aforestated problelms???

In any case, I HEARTILY sugggest this mode-
ESP if you mount it to your existing walls.

A Remove any loose paint, dust, dirt from mounting area of wall.
B. Buy a 4 x 8 sheet of 3/4" thick blue styrofoam, or if wanting a cheaper
product same size of white bead board, which looks like it was made
of 1/8" diameter styrofoam ballooons squished together, which it was.
It has less strength so has to be handled more carefully as it splits easier.
C. Laying the foam boardstock flat on basement floor, use a FOAM SAFE
spray adhesive and mount per spray can directions. Some sprays say
one coat and mount it web, others two coats, one on board one on backdrop,
letting dry and carefully mount starting from one end with an assistant
holding the backdrop up off the foam to avoid pre sticking.
D Trim the foam to size AFTER mounting. USE ONLY A NEW BLADED
UTILITY KNIFE AND CUT THRU THE FIRST SHOT> A STEEL STRAIGGHT
EDGE IS VERY USEFUL, or a METAL STUD ($3 for an 8").
E Mount to basement wall with a foam safe construction adhesive., with
adhesive applied in squiggly S shaped manner.
F Apply to wall at your premarked level line, with you and helper gently
pushing foam tight to wall. best to use gloves to minimizt using finger
pressure instead of full hand pressure,

The foam backing eliminates problem of moisture wicking thru basement wall
into the backdrop, causing it to buckle after time. The blue styrofoam is
MUCH better than the white beadboard in this performance, hence recommended.

Nuff said. Google blueboard or Styrofoam rigid insulation etc for more info

L

NWIH would I use masonite . Itsa likea DUCK It loves moisture.


Lars in Meeeechigan USA

Originator of foam for model RR scenery, see article in RMC mid '74...
favorite song " Imagination"... is funny, it leaves a cloudy day sunny...." SO just keep on 'imaginatin' ' beyond the box.... Enhanced 44t semi scale article how-to forthcoming.....
 
Posts: 3149 | Location: grand rapids mi. 49506 | Registered:: January 14, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I just mounted 1/4 inch luan plywood 3 weeks ago and painted a "sky" on it last week. I used 2 coats of kilz on it, lightly sanding between coats. I then mounted it on 1 X 2 lumber and used joint compound to hide screws and the seams. Used kilz on the dried joint compound and then painted it. Although this is a very recent install, I have been very happy with the luan. It is the same price as masonite at Lowe's and I had them cut it for 2ft X 8ft strips.

-Glenn
 
Posts: 176 | Location: McPherson, Kansas | Registered:: January 01, 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I have had good luck using Masonite for this purpose but would suggest if you do use Masonite, make sure you get the one that is TEMPERED. The tempered Masonite is much harder and more rigid and more stable.

Also, before you adhere the backdrop to the Masonite, allow them to be in the same room for several days. This will insure they both start out with the same amount of humidity and then if they do grow or shrink, they will do it together.

Good luck and happy railroading,
Don
 
Posts: 388 | Location: North Carolina | Registered:: January 10, 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Picture of MichRR714
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Thanks for all the input, I'm not in the basement and I have a dehumidifier to keep things at a constant low humidity in the train room. I'm going to go with tempered masonite, it has the flat surface I'm looking for.


Charlie a.k.a. MichRR714
TCA, LRRC
"I'm building the Charles, Lucas & North Railroad...every chance I can get in the train room!!!"
 
Posts: 152 | Location: Sterling Heights, Michigan | Registered:: February 05, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Painting the masonite on both sides will keep it from warping as will building a thin 1x2 frame behind your backdrop on the back side of your masonite. I think its a great material. I work at lowes in the lumber section and I would say I sell more to artists as a painting surface than I do to builders.
 
Posts: 1072 | Location: Charlottesvile, VA | Registered:: April 29, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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L Larson,

I am interested in your method. It seems like you are using the foam as a "moisture barrier"? Won't it stink like mold/mildow after awhile??


Bless God, America
 
Posts: 2218 | Location: Butler, PA 16001 | Registered:: August 09, 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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ahhhh yes, blue foam board!!! Inxpensive, rigid, moistureproof, light, dimensionally stable, etc etc etc. Le Wonder material. (end of commercial)
As I asked at the beginning, situation in basement (assumed) re moiisture and no reply from Charlie.

SO Thouosands have used the extruded blue foam boards in their basements for the above reasons. It will not particularly create mold etc. BUT if U have a dampness problem it could. Stink I doubt, but not as much as an organic material (masonite) which has sawdust as a basis. And how long is awhile?

No I have not used styrofoam bonded to inside of basement wall in my house-cause it is WRAPPED on the OUTSIDE in a continuous cocoon of 3/4" blue foam board. From top of 2nd floor walls down continuous and all the way to the basement footings! So I have sealed the moisture of the basement OUT, and not let it soak into the wall from the outside even tho there may be damproofing on the outside.

So I simply painted my (dry) basement walls, First used plaster of paris trowled on to level.fill any poor spots. Then a coat of blue tinted flat wall paint, all left over. Then a final coat toning the new blue down gradually to the original lighter blue. See my earlier posts on this...

Nuff said.

U takes your money and your chances. You gotta know your structure and its condition.
I can put 1.8 unpainted masonite in my garage and it will get a bow. Not the blue foam.
Not 3.4" plywood but its heavy.

NUFF said again

L


Lars in Meeeechigan USA

Originator of foam for model RR scenery, see article in RMC mid '74...
favorite song " Imagination"... is funny, it leaves a cloudy day sunny...." SO just keep on 'imaginatin' ' beyond the box.... Enhanced 44t semi scale article how-to forthcoming.....
 
Posts: 3149 | Location: grand rapids mi. 49506 | Registered:: January 14, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Picture of Rand Fredricksen
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Extruded polystyrene does not absorb moisture.

Rand


Give me fuel. Give me fire.
Give me that which I desire!
 
Posts: 1342 | Location: Wheeling, Illinois, USA | Registered:: May 18, 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Picture of MichRR714
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quote:
Originally posted by L Larson:

As I asked at the beginning, situation in basement (assumed) re moiisture and no reply from Charlie.



L


Maybe not a reply, but I did make another comment to clarify!


Charlie a.k.a. MichRR714
TCA, LRRC
"I'm building the Charles, Lucas & North Railroad...every chance I can get in the train room!!!"
 
Posts: 152 | Location: Sterling Heights, Michigan | Registered:: February 05, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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