I have seen some Ameri-towne structure online and have a question. Like sen here in the pic http://www.ogaugerr.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?preadd=action&key=B-73 is that the finished product or do I have to paint them. I dont want to get into painting just yet.

thanks.

They come injection moulded in a red plastic color. You need to dull-cote and paint them, which is very E-Z. These buildings offer a great economical way to start building a town on your layout. Dave G.

ps, if you don't want to paint, why not use the pre-painted ceramic buildings at Michaels, Lowes, HD, etc?

I don't really like the ceramic look. Plus I want to do some flat building along the back of the layout where there is not much room.

If I wanted to paint them would I have to spray paint and hand paint them. What kind of paint do you use.

Thanks.

quote:

Originally posted by bgraham34@gmail.com:
I don't really like the ceramic look. Plus I want to do some flat building along the back of the layout where there is not much room.

If I wanted to paint them would I have to spray paint and hand paint them. What kind of paint do you use.
Thanks.

My wife did a latex wash to simulate brick mortar then hand painted these fronts. Most painting is done with Polyscale acrylic paints.

These are building flats that I put together using Ameri-Towne building kits. I used various backs/fronts/sides to make taller buildings.

For painting I sprayed the whole building (before adding window glass) with a flat tan or red brick color. Then, I brushed on a thin, watery wash of antique white acrylic paint from the craft store to bring out the mortar lines.

Window frames and doors were also brush painted with craft store acrylics.

You can do as much or as little painting as you like. The Ameri-Towne buildings are cast in a realistic basic color to begin with. Just doing the windows and doors with the craft store acrylics will give you a nice model.









Jim

Jim,

I like the way your lamps show up in the windows.

Thanks, Bill.

Jim

By the way, is anyone entering the Ameri-Towne kitbashing contest being sponsored by OGR?

Entries are due by Sept 30 - details on the main page of the OGR website.

Jim -

I have a quick question for you: What's the depth (front to wall) on the 6 or 7 story building front shown in your posted photo #2?

I've struggled with the minimum depth issue a lot on my layout, since I have about a half of an inch max, and don't see how to squeeze a bulb in there, much less one that puts out some heat.

Your urban scenery is really inspiring, and I always enjoy reading your posts.

Thanks, Bob.

Those are just about 1/2 inch deep. Usually, I like to go for about 1 inch to about 3 inches, but I didn't have the clearance in these locations.

The half inch is enough for the small bulbs I use. To avoid heat build-up, I didn't use any rear backing on the building. I could get away with this because I frosted the window glass by sanding the plexiglas on both sides.

Jim

Thanks, Jim. What's the bulb size you're using?

My backing for the building fronts is 1/8 inch hardboard. I can see your plexiglas working great - but I'm concerned about the buildup of heat on my hardboard backing.

Maybe this is not an issue...I honestly don't know, and readily admit I tend to the conservative side on questions of heat...so your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Bob,
I use some small frosted bulbs (12 V) that I found in York one year. They are a little larger than a grain of wheat bulb. I run them at about 7 V so they should last "forever."

I would be more concerned about heat affecting the plastic window material. That's why I left off the rear wall and made sure the bulbs were not in contact with the plastic window glass.

You could always just cut some ventilation holes in your hardboard rear wall if you don't want to do away with it entirely.

Jim

I had a blast building and painting mine.Jim Barrett did a artical in the OGR that I think you should read to help you.Call George at OGR and have him send you a copy if you dont have.Heres a few of mine.BF

Jim -

Thanks for the bulb info, I gather they're bigger than the usual 6V flashlight bulbs, and that they're pre-wired like the leads on LEDs?

The ventilation holes are a GREAT idea! I wish I'd thought of it. In my case, the hardboard backdrop is only covering up a window, and has 5-6" of air behind it, so the ventilation holes should really keep the heat down.


Sasquatch -

Beautiful work. What's the make or brand of the lampposts in the photo - they are really nice too? The decal (?) signs on the brickwork are also great - Could you give me a lead on the source and application method? Thanks.

Bob,The lampposts are Lionel,I tried the Railking but felt they where to big.As for the signs,NYCJIM made those for me on his computer,reduceing and enlargeing them until he got the right look.He got the signs off of some web site.Maybe the scenic sourcelist can help.Then he printed them on onion paper.I do not know what he used to glue them on with.Maybe someone here can help you with that.I hear that the ameratowne buildings fit on cigar boxes.You may want to use this approach for a little depth.BF

Sasquatch,
I agree with Bob. Beautiful workmanship!

Can you please verify the Lionel P/N for those streetlights? #6-24156 ???

This message has been edited. Last edited by: springoflife,

Spring,Yes that is the number on my box,that the lights came in.BF

Sasquatch: That is some really awesome work!! Amazing! How did you do the sidewalks?

One thing though that bus (at least it looks like an old bus) in the background of the first picture is slightly out of scale. Seriously, is that an old bus on display at a train show?

.

....Wow! some great work on here w/ Ameri-Towne sections !

....Sas, that shot down the city street is REALLY nice!!

......I built the "Del Ray" hotel w/ 3 A.T. sections.





I only had about 4" to work with, depth wise so I went with DPM wall sections for the sides [4" wide]. They seem to go pretty good together.





.....the back is just some fiber board I had layin around. I beat it up pretty good, as it was backing up to the tracks/alley.



...I really like working with the Ameri-Towne kits/sections.

The road and the side walks are made of 1/8" tempered hard board,one glued on top of the other.The side walk was painted with a side walk color grey spray paint then India inked.I used a pencil to make expansion joints.The buss in the back ground is on display at the Illinois Rail Museum.We where set up in the buss barn for Thomas The Tank Engine.
Jeff,Those are realy nice looking buildings,As I know I'm not done with my town yet your photos along with many others here on the forum are a real insperation.Ive got alot more work to do.BF