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Just need a little assistance here.
What do you guys use to fill in gaps in between rock croppings? Please keep in mind that I am still going to fit those large voids. Thanks in advance, Cesar Cesar This message has been edited. Last edited by: FatBoy, |
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You can use Woodland Scenics Foilage streached out, torn and glued down.
Or you could just fill it in with more rocks. These pictures weren't really taken for the rocks so I'll see if I have any just showing the rocks. Gene Anstine |
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Hey Gene
Thanks for those pics, they really look great! What color did you use for the base of the rocks? I know they usually dry brush with lithium white for high-lighting as the last step. Thanks again, Cesar |
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Hi Fatboy,
If you watch the instructional video of Dave Frary, you will see that he mounts the rocks and fills in between the rocks with "Gypsolite". It is like hydrocal with texture and can be made either very thin or very thick, depending on its use. It dries with a more rock like texture and can be colored, painted, foliage added while wet, etc. I hope this helps! Frank Arbaugh |
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Hi Frank,
Thanks for the heads up. I have some scenery books but some photo's are B&W or they try describing the procedure. I will look into obtaining that video. Plus I like seeing others peoples work, maybe they do things differently than the book. Appreciate the feedback. Cesar |
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Also check the Battista video (it has been on sale) The results are really good looking, but the process is a little messy.
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This is the photo that best shows the Battista method (other than looking at his photos and video) It's hard to tell where the rock casting ends and the filler starts.
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I have had good results with a couple fo methods. I first tried the rock castings with hydrocal and plaster of paris and then filled the gaps with my fingers in the plaster. I didn't like that working time of the hydrocal and I found it hard to get a smoothe transition to the rock castings. I tried using air dry clay and it worked excellnt in the molds and there was no waiting for it to harden time. I simply eased the clay out of the mold and smoothed it on to the mountain. I first make the shape I want for the mountain out of newspaper wads held together with a web of masking tape. I then cut 1x1 squares of plaster cloth , dip it in water and cover the paper wads forming in the desires texture and shape. After it hardens you could start on casting your clay molds and apply them. I then follow up with watered down acrylics followed by ground foam.
I got great results in which I am happy with from both methods but the process and ease of using the clay makes for a more enjoyable process of doing so. |
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Cesar,
The coloring on the rocks starts with a spray of water to make the plaster damp so it doesn't suck all the color in. Then Artists Acrylics thinned in water till it looks like colored water. Started with Ultra Marine then Raw Sienna then Sienna. But pour some extra castings and play with it till you get the coloration that you want. Try some other colors. Don't make a decision at that time, make some different ones then come back the next day and see what you think. You can come see the second photo for you self. That is from the Christmas Layout we do from Thanksgiving to the first weekend in January. We are located 45 min south of you on 83. Gene Anstine |
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Wow, thanks for all the pictures and step by step procedures, there all very appreciative.
Gene, if you can post some info pertaining to the Christmas display, I would love to come down and check it out. Cesar |
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This is how I blended my rock casting together..
The castings are hotglued to the plaster cloth sub structure. Then Sculptamold is spread in between the rocks like grout, dyed with the same mortar tint as the rocks were cast with. A spray of the same dye in various shades was then sprayed on after rocks dried to give more texture and depth. Finally ground cover, shrubs and trees were added. I only used castings in the vally areas and found that hand sculpting the Sculptamold worked most other places. More on the trestle and rocks here. http://www.tuveson.com/TrestleScenery/scenerytrestle.htm Carl |
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Carl,
Thanks for the posting, great work on the castings. I've been to your website before and have admired the progress on your S-scale empire. Along with this thread, I will also be using your site as a reference. Cesar |
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Carl, I can't catch my breath!
Rand Give me fuel. Give me fire. Give me that which I desire! |
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Here is some progress on my rock project.
I first tried out some coloring with diluted Raw Umber and was pretty pleased with the results. Then I went ahead and did the rest of them and added a little lichen. I'll glue everything into place after I do high lighting. Cesar |
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Those came out nice. You can also use the Woodland Scenics Clump Folage to give a contrast to the Lychen.
The Christmas Show starts the day after Thanksgiving and is Fridays and Sundays till the first weekend in January. Watch the announcement page. I'll put something up there and then we can talk about directions. It is coming up fast again. Gene Anstine |
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In addition to the lichen, you can use ground foam in between rocks and a little bit on them too. You can stick it onto a vertical area without too much trouble by blowing it on.
Paint or spray some glue/water mix onto an area, starting on the base between the rock molds. Then put a bit of ground foam in some kind of spoon/tube - I use a paper-towel or gift-wrap tube - to make a small pile, maybe 1/2 teaspoon to start. Blow down the tube to get just a dusting stream off the top of the little pile: it hits the glue-mix, and most of it sticks! |
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Cesar, the scenery forum is a great resource for techniques. At the top of the page there is a "find" button, there a lot of great posts on rocks, mountains, hydro cal, joint compound, etc. You might even take a look at some of the older post on the other pages. I and some of the guys at Angeles Gate use woodland scenics stuff. Jeff Remy uses his own techniques. The preceding posts from the guys using the other manuals and videos have demonstrated the value of their technical sources. Carl's output is simply amazing for six months. The AGHR produces scenery at a glacial pace. We make the pyramids look like a rush job. |
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Thanks again for all the tips and positive feedback
Aghrhowie, I will look into that information, Thanks Bob, I will try that method since the mountain I am doing is a little steep to just sprinkle it on, Thanks for the tip Gene, I'll look out for the announcement, Thanks Cesar |
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