I have a Trolley project and a re-furbish job for a brass Pacific. Oh yes, a big Open House coming up, too!

A mess.......

On3 3 stall roundhouse

Mike

Right now it's these **** japanese beetles....



They are all over the place!

oh geez, way too many projects.
re-detailing a RS3, painting a N5 cabin, a DL&W reefer, bashing some buildings for the club layout.

Dust, unfortunately.

I have a CLW GP35 going together.

Working on a grainery and silos

A Gilamur U18B (etched brass )kit.

Dan, are they two rail or three?

I have a few thing sitting out, and a bunch of projects in boxes waiting for me.

Here's what's eating up my real estate right now...

SCL SW8 and NYC Transfer Cab are at the paint station. The transfer cab and interior are up, with the SW8 on deck. My table has a radio car kit that I need to rush up and finish and the H1644 project of long ago, sitting there waiting for me to start on it now that I have all the parts.

I think the new few projects I'm tackling are a NH boxcar and a SOU 44Tonner. Then who knows. Gotta find time though, not much of that is available.

Hardest part is gonna get the railings on the transfer cab into the body without ruining too much of the paint on the body. I don't think there's anyway I can avoid it, perhaps trimming the railings back as much as possible and pulling the railings back somehow...hmmm will be a challenge after I install LED lighting and the interior into this cab.

David

What yellow do you recommend for the yellow on the SCL unit. My U18B will be a SCL unit

Thanks

Colin

To match SCL microscale decals, the directions say to use badger DM&IR yellow. The yellow does indeed match the decals after multiple coats.

Thanks David, my decals are own the way, so I can get the paint ordered before they arrive

http://i.ebayimg.com/13/!Bb8gL...HBKyT6WKeB!~~_12.JPG


Jut recieved the donor for the Gp40 kitbash!

Two railing various Lionel's, fixing MTH diesel's pilots, stack of cars need two rail trucks. Out of cash! Lots of broken cars laying around.
My Atlas 3 rail cars need metric screws for KD couplers or Atlas boxes. I'm not going to tap any more and risk breaking the tap and bits. I've done it three or four times now and ruined the cars value. I wish the KDs lined up better. When I buy Atlas it will be their two rail only cars. What happened to their new coupler design???
I may stick with Jim P.'s advice and buy only two rail ready cars in the future. Too bad there's so many well detailed three rail only ones. Like Lionel's well cars, tankers, and hoppers. Joe

Nothing,it's all in the benchwork stage right now.

quote:

Originally posted by John Albee:
Dan, are they two rail or three?

Definitely two rail! I would run the little buggers over but they smell like poo when crunched. That poo smell attracts their friends and so it goes. Oh ya, the bite too!

quote:

Originally posted by Colin Stewart:
Thanks David, my decals are own the way, so I can get the paint ordered before they arrive

Can't wait to see the U18B. No one does anything realistic in O in SCL paint these days. Not even freight cars... you'd think AtlasO would put out a few boxcar schemes as they were on other roads as well.

Well, since I don't have a decent paint booth (an old cardboard box don't quite cut it) and good weather I'm in a high speed paint mode. A Reading C-430, a WM GP-40 and a pile of weathering projects are in the shop right now.

I've been toying with th eidea of taking my 3-rail MTH 2-8-0 and converting it to 2-rail.

I can take all the locosound electronics out but the DC motor. I'll have to insulate one side of the drive wheels and pilot truck but I can't figure out how they put it together in the 1st place. Looks like the wheels were press onto the shafts after the shafts were placed thru the chassis, because I don't see a plate of any kind that can be removed to take the wheels/shafts out as a whole unit.

Another thing I would like to do is replace the blind flanged wheels with all flanged wheels. The wheels have a flange of 1.446 diameter and the "tire" that rides on the rails is 1.264 diameter. The shaft is 3/16" diameter as far as I can tell (all this might be metric?). Does anyone sell wheels close to this diameter? Maybe all I need/should do is buy some new wheelsets that are already insulated on one side.

A question. I want to determine what the minimum track radius would be for running this train with all flanged wheels. I measured the distance between the front and back wheels and it's around 5" once I allow for a little clearance of the flanges, so they don't hit the rail and cause a derailment. Anybody know the formula???

If I can do this this may be the cheapest way for me to get into 2-rail O scale At worst I'd ruin an engine I hardly ever run anyway.

Wow, you guys are as busy as ever!

I just moved my workbench from the basement to the garage and trying to organize everything so my wife's car can fit in the other side (she insists).

When it's done, my first order of business will be to scratch an O gauge rotating tipper car from copper, based on prototype photos. I plan to run an assembly line of these and make about a dozen. I'll probably post to the OGR narrow gauge site, as it represents 18" gauge, although it might fit here as it is O gauge 2 rail too.

This little 60 ton guy just came off the bench and is now hard at work next to its 100 ton brethren and some of those newfangled Alco high-hood switchers...

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Brian Scace,

...and this thing got finished and wired into the interlocking a couple weeks ago.

Neat shots guys.

I thought it was interesting how the roof of this tunnel looked like it got a coat of cement. The cement kinda bulges out the front and covers the stone.

Jim,

There is so much crap on my work bench that I had forgotten I even had one until you posted this thread!

SW

Found this on my one bench......

Martin, did that start as a kit?
Brian, When are you coming my way again? Very nice.

Simon... Im so glad you said that,I thought I was the only one who had lost his work bench!!! Stephen from Aust (cTr Choose the Right)

quote:

Originally posted by R.R.:
Martin, did that start as a kit?
Brian, When are you coming my way again? Very nice.

Jim --> http://ogaugerr.infopop.cc/eve...41028214/m/196107051

Nice work, man. I wonder why they used Galvinized metal for the base of the project?

quote:

Originally posted by R.R.:
Nice work, man. I wonder why they used Galvinized metal for the base of the project?

Speculation - because it was available and the price was right?

Hello Everyone,

This is what has been on my workbench......or better on the kitchen table!

It's a Overland CN GP40-2W where I replaced the Sagami motor with a powerful swiss made Maxon motor. Next step will be the DCC decoder....






Best regards, Stefan