Hi All,

I need a source for Slides and slide covers, to use as glazing in loco windows and elsewhere. This is a place where I think real glass looks much better than clear plastic. Thanks for any help you all can give.

P-B-L, the Sn3 comapny that makes plastics kits, imports brass, and has the soldering equipment sells 0.006" X 1" X 1" glass. www.p-b-l.com

Look in their catalog site under "tools" part no. 1-pbl-723.

Jim J.

Just about any scientific supply house carries slip cover glass in more than one thickness.

Slide glass is too thick.

How much do you need and what are going to cut it with? I use a diamond tip scribe, but the cheaper carbide scribes work ok.

Contact me directly & I'll see what I have in my shop that I share.

quote:

Originally posted by mwb:
I use a diamond tip scribe, but the cheaper carbide scribes work ok.

How do you fine tune the cuts if you have a glass that has to fit into an odd shaped frame? I've always used plastic cause I can cut it or sand it, how do you do that with glass?....dave

and... once you've managed a nice, clean cut, what type of adhesive do you use to fasten it in place... on plastic? brass?

If you have a very steady hand (and good eyes & mine are fading...) and a sharp diamond tip, cutting .007 and thinner glass in an irregular shape is not all that difficult. Scribe it ~3-5 times and it will separate on the line providing you are working on a very flat, clean surface. Might take a few practice tries, but it will work.

I secure glass to whatever material with the smallest amount of Goo that I can apply to the edge with a toothpick or apply to where I want the glass to drop into place.

My biggest problem is after I've cut it, I generally misplace it and can't find it until after I've made a 2nd one, or I just drop it on the floor never tobe seen again....

Another source for those that might not want to deal with scientific supply houses - Sierra Scale Models: http://www.sierrascalemodels.com/glass.htm

Thanks everyone, for all of the help. I have a number of steam locos, waiting for new glass, so they can be reassembled.

Lisa,

I would try Carolina Science (www.carolina.com). They have circular, square, and rectangular glass cover slips (at anywhere from $3 to about $10 per box) ov various thicknesses. Most "boxes" contain about 100 pieces so you will have plenty to play with, when it comes to cutting. Just put the term "cover slip" into their search engine and you will be directed to catalog p. 518 with all the information.

I have about 200 boxes of cover slips in my lab and will never run out! Glass really does make things look like glass, that's for sure!

Jim

Thanks Jim

Lisa, et al

I use cover slips, too, whenever possible.

For adhesives, I have the best results by either using watch crystal cement (available from Micromark, for one) or by caulking it in with Elmer's White Glue.

The watch crystal cement dries clear and flows under the glass by capillary action (put a dot touching both the inside of the cab wall and the edge of the glass after you position the pane and watch 'er flow right in between!). Elmer's White does the same thing. If an errant thumb hits the glass hard enough to break the bond the glass has already shattered, so the joint is plenty strong enough and very clean.

The crystal cement hardens faster, while the Elmer's is a little more compliant.

Hope it helps,
Brian