I'm not sure if this actually qualifies as a "layout", but I am planning to build an O scale around-the-walls shelf-style layout that will occupy a shelf about 9" wide, about 66" off the floor (eye-level for me).

I'm thinking about using right-angle shelf brackets to support the shelf.

The wall studs are about 16" apart, so I could put an angle bracket at each stud location, but I'm wondering what material would be a good choice for the shelf given that it has to support heavy O scale equipment?

Foam board seems out of the question, for example...

Thanks for any and all suggestions!

If I was doing it, I would go with at least 3/4" plywood. 1/2" plywood will sag. I wish that I had gone with 3/4" on my bench work. I ended up adding support or doubling the 1/2 in plywood in places.

Welcome new ON30 Guy. Lisa is giving you good advice about the 3/4 plywood. I feel you need to use something a little more sturdy than the metal angle brackets. You are going to have some left overs on the plywood, so I would install a plywood gusset on every other stud. Just don't do what many of us older hands have found out the hard way. An that my friend is "Go cheap". Have you visited the Narrow Gauge thread on this forum? A lot of neat stuff.
Al

Welcome to the Forum-
a 9" wide shelf is not a long moment arm for supporting weight. Even with heavy locos. One clean way to support the shelf is to use the extruded aluminum channel designed to hold up a shelf. It is about 2" tall and has an extruded channel into which your shelving material slides into, winding up with a cantilevered shelf. It is normally used with white Melamine shelving, but 3/4" plywood can have a step routed into one edge to fit. It comes in lengths up to 48". This is the strongest support system I've seen to date for its weight because the shelf is supported along its entire length. It also is very clean looking without brackets or gussets beneath. On top of the ply you can use Homosote or rigid foam to deaden sound.

One side of my around-the-walls design uses this method.

Like Al mentioned, I would think beyond commercial shelving. I would think more in terms of traditional model railroad benchwork. In other words, a plywood top supported by a framework of 1x2's or 1x3's. Then you can use Al's ideas about your own supporting gussets to attach everything to the wall.

It's a little more work at first, but it gives you an area to hide the under-layout wiring, etc. This way you could get away with thin plywood too, making the whole thing lighter than a solid thick shelf. My 2 rail O scale layout varies in width from 9 inches up to 15 inches, but uses only 1/4 inch luan plywood with no problem at all.

The Kalmbach book "Building Model Railroad Benchwork" is a must-read item if you are not familiar with the multitude of different construction techniques used by model railroaders.

Jim

I would also consider cutting plywood strips (at least 2" wide) for support cross bracing. I run them both directions like a ladder. Plywood stood on edge is about as strong as you could ask for. Glue it to 1/2" or better plywood for the surface and you can stand on it.

the top shelf in the picture was furing strips (1x3") and they tend to warp. The plywood strips used on the bottom shelf will remain as cut even when they get damp. Joe

Joe,
That's exactly the way I would do it. It's a very efficient use of lumber and remains lightweight.

Looks good.

Jim

while the benchwork certainly appears light. how are the cross pieces (from the rear ledger to the front stringer) attached to those stringers? I would hope glued and screwed, because the location of the inboard mechanical joint is the point of highest moment and rotation (in layman's terms, the place of highest stress). what will prevent it from drooping over time?

The corner area should be fine without additional support since one leg of the 90 degree corner angle will be braced against the other.

For long straightaways, you would need either an angled support from the front edge down to the wall at about 45 degrees or a vertical support member from the front edge down to the lower level.

Jim

I used heavy duty Home Depot/Lowes steel shelf brackets. These come in several different sizes of 11", 15" and 20" or there abouts.

I lag bolted them into roughly every other stud and added a 1 x 3 across the top of the bracket that is used to secure the rest of the framework. It's probably overkill but I put Sievers Benchwork on top then 1/8" luan plywood with 2" insulating foam laminated to the luan. All parts combined is strong enough that I could climb up on it if I had the desire and it would support me without any problem.

The 1 x 3 across the top can be lengthened to extend beyond the bracket. For example, I used a number of 15" brackets to mount 16" and 18" wide Sievers by extending the 1 x 3 out to the appropriate size. And I used a 20" bracket with a 27" long 1 x 3 mounted on top for a section of benchwork that extends out 27" from the wall.

If you'd like some better photos I can post them after I get home today.

Bob

Well the lower shelfs are all cantelever on cabinets and wall supports:


but they're not cut to finished depth. I haven't decided on how the facia and scenery will be meeting.
So for the upper shelf: the brackets are cut from plywood and look like steps from the side.

Each one can be custom cut for the changing track elevations. It's not shown in that first picture because the corner supports itself like Jim P said.

If the elevation stays the same I use one as a template for the rest. It forms a upside down shelf bracket inside the scenery and stays hidden. Their nailed to the bracing which is screwed into the wall's 2x4.
For your 9" shelf corbels or brackets will be great but you always want to support it along the front and back edge. Make a "T" or "U" shape box with the plywood so it never sags. Plywood on edge is very, very strong. I also use titebond 2 on all joints and power nail or screw everything as apropriate. "It's the builder in me", Joe

quote:

Originally posted by RF_ROSS:
I used heavy duty Home Depot/Lowes steel shelf brackets. These come in several different sizes of 11", 15" and 20" or there abouts.

I lag bolted them into roughly every other stud and added a 1 x 3 across the top of the bracket that is used to secure the rest of the framework. It's probably overkill but I put Sievers Benchwork on top then 1/8" luan plywood with 2" insulating foam laminated to the luan. All parts combined is strong enough that I could climb up on it if I had the desire and it would support me without any problem.

The 1 x 3 across the top can be lengthened to extend beyond the bracket. For example, I used a number of 15" brackets to mount 16" and 18" wide Sievers by extending the 1 x 3 out to the appropriate size. And I used a 20" bracket with a 27" long 1 x 3 mounted on top for a section of benchwork that extends out 27" from the wall.

If you'd like some better photos I can post them after I get home today.

Bob

Thanks Bob -- I'd really appreciate any additional photos you have time to take & post.

Just had a chance to check back on this thread. I'll get the other photos posted tonight. I've got some good close-ups that will clarify what I've done.

Bob

Sorry for the delay getting these posted On30Guy - had some stuff come up last night. In any case, I think that these photos will give you the detail that you're looking for. They were pretty inexpensive considering how much work they save over trying to create something similar out of wood.

I just realized that I didn't copy over any pics with the foam installed. I'll try to upload some of those in the next few days, too.

Bob

Bob,

Thanks very much for posting these pictures! They're so good you could do an online tutorial on this construction method.

I have a couple of Sievers modules I've been experimenting with, so I'm delighted to see how you've used them.

Robert

Here is a example of the type of support I referred to. This works great if you'd rather not have supports in the way beneath the benchwork. In my application there is a couch beneath and I did not want to bump heads on brackets. Frame and stringer type benchwork can be used when there is a horizontal member across the rear that fits in the support slot.

Chris,
Thanks very much for posting your pictures! Because of the relatively narrow (~12") separation between the planned upper O scale shelf and the lower HO benchwork, this system might be a good choice. Time to get out the tape measure!
Robert

PRRman - Chris,
Where did you get the extruded channel, I have been looking for that exact thing.Dan

why at the big orange box store, of course... the Home Depot.
not sure if Lowe's has them also. I've been using them for several years. They need to be anchored into wall studs. I've also used masonry screws for bsmt. walls.

I'll try to find manf. info if your local orange box does not carry it.

Chris,
The local "orange box" had one 2' section, no display - I now have the MFG name. Did not have time to hunt down any "help" to ask if there would be more.
Thanks,
Dan

FYI
The manufacturer is Rubbermaid. The model is the Gripper. My local HD had only the 24" and 36" lengths in stock. I could not locate a mention on the Rubbermaid or HD website so it might be discontinued.

Matt