Hey guys!!
I have a GG1 problem. I have a really nice GG1 with sound that I inherited from my Dad when he passed away. I like to run it from time to time but it does not get regular use. My problem is that I cannot keep the pilot wheels on track. I have tried installing a small spring on the pivot screw but it didn't help. Anybody have any ideas? I am using the old original American Flyer track and don't have any problems with any of my other engines. Thanks

If your GG1 is an American Models unit, then maybe I can help. I have one of them too, and have been running it for about 12 years without much problem. Once in a great while, it too will derail the pilot, but only on my old Flyer switches, or on less than optimal trackwork. When I look carefully, it has almost always been either the closure rails on the switch not meeting the stock rail, or (just once) the gauging on the wheels was too wide. The gauging on these units, once set, will keep the adjustment you make. The placement of a spring on the truck should have helped, which makes me think that the problem may be with the trackage.

You did not specify what track you are using, nor the type wheels on the GG1. Since it was your dad's, it may have scale wheels on it, which have much smaller flanges, which will make it more prone to derailments on old Flyer track. But no matter what track system you are using, just be sure you have it as smooth as possible at the points where one section meets another (if you are using sectional track). With 20 wheels on the rails, you have to be sure your track is as good as you can make it.

Good luck, and have fun!

Jerry Poniatowski
Wet Again in Wayne, MI

Many years ago when I first purchased my hi-rail (not scale flanged) Tuscan AM PRR GG1 and was still using AC Gilbert AF track at the time I remember having trouble with its front truck wheels not staying on the tracks as well. I don't recall any one thing I did to resolve the problem, but I did get it to work much better in the end, and today on S-trax it works great (in fact I converted it to TMCC because I like them so much). Anyway, I recall it took the combination of properly adjusted truck float on the lever arm (there's a screw in the center of the truck), properly adjusted lever arm float on the power chassis tongue (there's a screw at that pivot point too), proper gauging of all pilot wheels, and ensuring no obstructions (extra mold flashing, etc) in terms of the pilot trucks clearing the front steps and ends of the power truck side frames. The truck float is looser or more slack than usual, the arm float is less, but should allow the arm to swing freely with a little vertical play, and the gauging of the wheels is about 0.725-0.735". Try fiddling with those factors and see if you can get yours to work better. Assuming no track work issues or tighter than 20" radius (40" diameter) curves.

Thanks for the good advice guys. I will take a close look this weekend