Two questions:

1. Will the Brute negotiate (without hitting) the MTH lighted lockons?

2. Will the Brute negotiate the MTH lighted lockons with the lens and bulb REMOVED?

THANKS!

From what I was told yesterday:

1) No

2) yes

Makes sense to me. Once you see these things up close and personal, you'll understand why. Folks who plan to operate the Brute will want to make absolutely certain that there is adequate clearance, horizontal and vertical, throughout the running route.

mdainsd:

THANK YOU! I might still order some basic lockons from EBR, or whoever owns that company now, just to be on the safe side!

Personally I am a fan on running my power wires under the track pinched in the slot of the rails. Works for me.

Not me. One of my Train buddies declared me the King of Light Bulbs. 10 Lighted lockons. Over 150 light bulbs on the layout. The layout is only 19 by 8.

In the mid 70s another buddy wanted me to go with him to be extras in the movie Slapshot. Part of the crowd as the hockey scenes were filmed here in Syracuse. Shoud have done it as the movie is a classic like Cool Hand Luke.

All in reference to Garys post above.

I purchased two of the original Lionel "universal" (0 gauge & standard gauge) lockons earlier today, and will replace my MTH lighted lockons with those.

quote:

Personally I am a fan on running my power wires under the track pinched in the slot of the rails. Works for me.

Me, too, although I'm no longer using conventional tubular track on my layouts. Back when I was using tubular O and O27, I just pried open the slot; inserted the wire; let the slot spring closed to grip the wire; and that was it. In some cases--hard to get-to areas, for example, I might follow-up with a bit of solder applied to that spot before putting the track back in place.

Interesting that this should come up. When I was at
York back in April, Mike wolf had a standard guage
display layout set up and his steam locos were hitting
his lighted lockons on the curves. He had them attached
to the outside radius of the curves. I mentioned to
him that if he merely relocated them to the inner
radius that the collision problem would be solved.
He tried it right then and there and VOILA! It worked!


I learned this as a child from my Dad who showed me
this tip when installing lockons and contacters and
other electrical attachements (he made a lot of his
own gear back then). By installing them on the inner
side, the locos overhang the outer side and thus miss
the lockon.

There ya go....

Also, as I understand it, you need to retain the light
on the lockons for some kind of ballasting/impedance
matching for the electronic control systems for the
newer-tech locos, so removing the light is not a good
option. Relocating the lockon to the inner curved rails
or to a straight section will allow the retention of
the light and overhang will not be an issue.

Lighted lockons are not necessary for DCS.

The Brute hits the lockons because of its' overall width not overhang when rounding curves.

Since I run in conventional mode only, I will replace my two MTH lighted lockons with the two original Lionel "universal" (dual gauge) lockons.

I'll concur with FERNCLIFF& GREENPOINT RY. No need to use a lighted lockon with very, very few exceptions.

quote:

I'll concur with FERNCLIFF& GREENPOINT RY. No need to use a lighted lockon with very, very few exceptions.

I also concur with that observation. The problem with lighted Lockons and the Brute is simply a matter of a clearance issue--an issue that will likely surface in several ways with those who operate their Brutes (bridges clearances, tunnels, trackside accessories, etc.)

My 84" diameter curves plus adequate clearance and NO bridges should insure safe operation of this monster engine at Bear Creek Junction. In any event, the first run will be a very S-L-O-W one, while carefully observing every curve! The true articulation should also help with clearances.

My main concern is how my six state cars will look behind this behemoth!

If and when (February 2009) MTH offers the correct size passenger cars, I would guess they would be priced at about $500-600 list!

Still, "gotta have 'em!"

I Think that if it is in proximity to the track the Brute will Brutilize whatever is there.

Move it or lose it,